Archive for October, 2009
Mt John Observatory At Lake Tekapo
Friday, October 30th, 2009An observatory may not be on everyone’s travel itinerary, but if you pass through Lake Tekapo in New Zealand’s south island then a visit to the Mt John Observatory can be worth doing. You don’t need to be an astronomy buff to become lost in wonder at what you may see.
Mt John is a large hill overlooking Lake Tekapo, just a short drive from the town. What makes it such a great spot for an observatory are the incredibly clear skies it enjoys from its position in the Mackenzie basin - in the rain shadow of the alps, with one of the country’s driest climates. The extra altitude of Mt John, about 1000m, means even less atmosphere between the telescopes and the stars.
The observatory is run by the University of Canterbury, and offers both night and daytime tours. These begin from the Earth and Sky Observatory Tours shop in the middle of town (own transport not needed). I did both tours, starting with the most popular one at night. After being transported up the hill to the observatory buildings, some of the astronomers who work there showed us around, explained their work, and pointed out a variety of features in the sky while we stood outside. It was amazing how much could be seen with the naked eye in such clear conditions, especially with someone knowledgable to show where to look and what to look for.
Inside the observatory domes, the telescopes were aimed at a selection of interesting objects which everyone took turns to look at. More time was spent waiting for a turn than actually looking through telescopes, which is unavoidable in a group situation. However the staff made sure everyone had their fair share, and their commentary, and answers to numerous curly questions, kept us interested while waiting.
The next day, I was the sole person on an afternoon tour. Being daylight, looking through telescopes wasn’t on the menu. Instead, the focus was on other observatory buildings and the extent of astronomical work that goes on at Mt John. Of note was their MOA (Microlensing Observations in Astrophysics) project, in which a sophisticated telescope uses gravitational microlensing (I won’t try to explain it) to detect planets around distant stars. Many such planets have been found using this cutting edge science.
A few things left impressions on me. One was the incredible clarity of the night sky - I’ve seen many clear skies in inland Australia, but the brightness of the stars on a clear frosty night at Mt John rivalled the best of them. Another was the passion and enthusiasm of the astronomers I met - refreshing to experience in a world where mediocrity and disinterest is all too common. I was also left with an invigorated sense of wonder at both the scale of the universe, and the genius of the people and technology involved in studying it.
Nearly everyone who visits New Zealand passes through Lake Tekapo (it’s on the route to Mount Cook and Queenstown), but most only stop for photos and to use the toilets. For anyone able to linger, a visit to the Mt John observatory can add a unique dimension to a kiwi holiday, and many reasons to say “wow!”
Winter view over Lake Tekapo. Even if not touring the observatory, the views and the cafe can be worth a visit.
Links:
About the Mt John Observatory (by Tekapo Tourism)
Earth and Sky Observatory Tours
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
A Drive Through Boranup Forest In WA
Thursday, October 22nd, 2009Pleasant forest drives in Western Australia are not limited to the southern forests region. The Margaret River region, known more for its wine and surf, also has a delightful gravel road winding its way through majestic karri forest.
The road is Boranup Drive, which starts from Caves Road just south of Lake Cave and re-joins Caves Road 11km further south, towards Augusta. If you’re travelling along that part of Caves Road, then a detour up Boranup Drive can be used as a slightly-longer alternative to continuing on the bitumen.
The attraction of this drive is the forest it passes through, and the walks which can be accessed. Boranup forest consists mainly of regrowth karri - the whole area was logged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and the explosion of life you see (up to 60 metres tall) is what has grown back since then. Karri is the third-tallest tree species in the world, and while the trees along Boranup Drive are not quite as tall or wide as the karri regrowth near Pemberton, they are still impressive.
In the middle section of the road lies a small open space which was once a picnic area - it’s at the intersection of a narrow four-wheel-drive trail named Anchor Rd. The trail is signposted, but the sign is hard to spot (and only if heading north); look for an area of flat open space adjoining the road. The picnic table was removed long ago, and there are no facilities, but it still makes a great spot to park and enjoy some local bakery products while soaking up the forest ambience. Bird noise here can be delightfully cacophanous at times.
This old picnic area can also be the start of some pleasant walks. When the forest was being logged, narrow gauge tram tracks were laid to enable log removal. The routes of these long-gone tracks are now four-wheel-drive trails in varying stages of being overgrown, and they make excellent walking tracks. One way to enjoy them is just go for a wander and see where you end up, and Anchor Rd is a good candidate for this. Another option is to consult the book “Walking the capes” by Jane Scott for some maps and walk descriptions.
Boranup Drive is a firm gravel surface, suitable for conventional cars, although it can be bumpy due to corrugations, pot-holes and rocks. Expect your car to get a good shake-up! It is also narrow, so keep the speed down and be ready to move over and make room for oncoming vehicles. If you don’t mind this sort of driving, Boranup Drive can be a scenic addition to a tour of the Margaret River region.
Topics: Scenic Roads, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Merredin Town Tour
Monday, October 12th, 2009The Western Australian country town of Merredin looks fairly average at first glance, the sort of place most travellers might stop for food and fuel before moving on. But it’s far from average, and boasts a town tour that is surprisinqly worthwhile.
I stumbled on this little gem while driving around the wheatbelt, a large agricultural region inland from the west coast. Previously I’d only used Merredin, 285km east of Perth, as a brief refreshment stop. Being the largest town for hundreds of kilometres makes it very suitable for that. This time, however, I stayed overnight to explore some of the natural attractions in the area. That’s when I found out about the Snapshot Tour, a town tour run by “Discover the Wheatbelt” late afternoon every day for most of the year.
Normally I avoid organised tours, but as it cost only $15 and would only take up 90 minutes, there wasn’t too much to lose. Curiosity got the better of me.
It didn’t take long to see why this was going to be a good tour. The guy running it, Martin Morris, is a long time Merredin resident who not only knows the place inside out, but is passionate about it. Being a tour guide isn’t just a job - he already has a day job. He leads tours because he enjoys showing off his town, and this enthusiasm makes the tour very engaging. On the surface, a country town’s airstrip and wheat bins may not sound like the subjects of gripping tales, but the stories behind them, as told by Martin, are worth hearing.
The tour uses a comfortable small coach, and takes in points of interest in and around the town. Merredin’s history is talked about, as you might expect, but it’s the focus on the town’s present that left the greatest impression on me. In particular, the way water is harvested and recycled in an arid climate. Examples of waste-water recycling were pointed out, which would otherwise be easy to not notice. The gathering of rainwater from granite outcrops, and the present fight against salinity, are other cases of Merredin’s people adapting to their challenges.
In contrast to most inland Australian towns, which are slowly shrinking, Merredin is actually growing. The tour helps explain what is different about Merredin, and why the growth is not surprising. Martin’s other role as a town councillor allows him to give insights into many of the town’s innovations, and provides a source of many interesting stories about the town and its people.
I felt that the relatively small investment of time and money in doing this tour was well rewarded. Never again will I think of Merredin as just a toilet stop!
Links:
Discover The Wheatbelt
Topics: Activities, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »