Archive for February, 2010
Comfort On A Budget In Christchurch
Wednesday, February 24th, 2010A while back I wrote about comfortable budget accommodation in New Zealand, citing the BBH hostel chain as one option for those wanting basic comfort and privacy without a hotel price tag. Here I share one of my three favourites - Dorset House in Christchurch.
Although classed as a backpacker hostel, the owners take pride in it being small and homely, which it is. If you imagine a big two-storey house with lots of bedrooms, a cosy lounge room and a log fire, then you’ve got the picture. Its location on the quieter fringes of the central city area also set it apart from other hostels which tend to position themselves nearer to the city centre but in less charming settings.
The clincher for me was the way solo travellers are catered for. That is, solo travellers who don’t want to share a dormitory with strangers, something which can become less appealling with age. Dorset House (and other BBH hostels) have rooms specifically for singles. Naturally they cost more than a dorm bed, but are less than the twin or double rooms which the hostel also has. Treating people on their own with as much respect as people who are accompanied is something that more expensive places could get better at!
The real beds (not bunks) and comfort of the rooms make it easy to forget you’re in a hostel - until you leave your room and use the shared facilities. Communal lounges are one of the strengths of hostels, and having a very well equipped shared kitchen at one’s disposal can be a fantastic asset. Not just for saving money by self-catering … I used the kitchen at Dorset to prepare daily rations for a camping trip, something which would have been much harder in a motel or hotel.
If you don’t want to do your own food, there are plenty of eating places in the vicinity. Nearby Victoria Rd, a main road heading north-west out of the city, hosts a variety of eating places and cafes. Procope Cafe, just around the corner from the hostel, does delightful breakfasts and coffee. I found this cafe after running out of breakfast cereal near the end of my trip, and wished I’d run out of cereal sooner.
Dorset House is about ten or fifteen or twenty minutes walk from the city centre - depending on your route and how fast you walk. While it may have an “away from the hustle and bustle” feel to it, the hostel is still within walking distance of most of the central city if you don’t mind using your legs.
Another selling point is the proximity to the Avon River, just 200 metres to the west. A relaxing stroll along this gentle river, among manicured park land, provides access to the western end of central Christchurch - not a bad way of getting around.
I stayed at Dorset House at the beginning and end of my last NZ trip, and also during the middle when I switched from bus mode to car mode. It was a beautifully comfortable home base, made particularly welcoming by the friendliness and helpfulness of its hosts and staff. Next time I go to Christchurch, I know where I’ll want to stay!
More information:
Dorset House website (very comprehensive)
Dorset House page on BBH hostels website
Topics: Accommodation, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Yeagarup Dunes - Where Sand Invades Forest
Wednesday, February 17th, 2010
The Pemberton area in Western Australia is best known for its spectacular forests of karri and other native trees. But rising suddenly out of this forest - and slowly creeping inland - is an expanse of big sand dunes on the move. These are the Yeagarup Dunes, the largest land-locked mobile dune system in the southern hemisphere.
The sand dunes are about 20km southwest of Pemberton, and are an odd sight when you first come upon them, rising up to 40m above otherwise normal forest. They form a ten kilometre long body of sand being blown inland, swallowing the forest at a rate of about 4 metres each year. Slow, but unstoppable.
Having a look around the dunes, or at least their edges, provides a refreshingly different angle on what is mostly a forested and farmed region. Here are three ways of getting a taste of it.
1. Organised 4WD tour
Pemberton Discovery Tours operate trips in 4WD vehicles with experienced drivers. Although the Yeagarup dunes are “land-locked”, they aren’t far from the coast, and the tour takes you right to a wild deserted beach where the Warren River gently enters the sea. The tour also passes through old growth karri forest, with good descriptions of everything you see.
I’ve done this tour, and learned from the commentary despite being already well acqainted with the region. It’s a great way for non-4WD vehicle owners to see an interesting area few get to see, with someone skilled and experienced to worry about driving safely through some very hair-raising terrain.
2. Do-it-yourself 4WD tour
Anybody with their own four wheel drive vehicle can drive through the Yeagarup dunes to the coast. The catch is that you would need to be confident with driving through deep sand with some very steep slopes, and possibly no-one else around to call on for help if stuck.
3. Do-it-yourself walking tour with conventional car
This option is available to anyone who has a regular two wheel drive car and the willingness to go walking. It’s also the cheapskates option, which may be why it was how I first explored the Yeagarup dunes!
From Pemberton, head towards Nannup on the Vasse Highway. About 12km from Pemberton, turn left down Ritter Road. Thls turnoff is near where Old Vasse Rd (through the Warren National Park) joins the highway. Continue down the gravel Ritter Road, and after a further 11km you’ll reach Yeagarup Lake with its picnic area and toilet. Beyond this point is strictly for four wheel drive vehicles, so if you’re in a regular car, park here.
After taking in the small lake, proceed on foot down the sandy track which is a continuation of Ritter Rd. Not far down this track a wall of sand is encountered, appearing very out of place in the thick forest. The exact spot where you leave the track to climb the dunes will vary from year to year, but should be clear enough when you come to it. Remember to keep an ear open for approaching vehicles, and be ready to quickly move aside off the sometimes narrow track.
Once up on the sand, you’re in another world. To one side spreads a view over low forest, dense and green, while on the other stretches just sand - and lots of it. Part beach-like, part desert-like, it forms a stark contrast to the surroundings.
Away from any vegetation, you can pretend to be in part of the Sahara desert, and take suitable photos. Sand-boarding could be an option if you’ve got something to slide down large dunes on. Otherwise, just going for a wander to explore the dunes - wherever takes your fancy - can pass the time pleasantly. The coast is too far for a return day walk, but there’s plenty of sand to explore.
I should point out that walking in the soft sand can be sweaty work, even in winter, so a drink bottle might be appreciated. Also, if you plan on walking far, look back and take a mental picture of where you entered the dunes … to help you find the exit point later! Some days finding your way out may be easy. On cloudy days, with fresh tracks scarce and footprints wind-covered, it may not be so obvious.
When you’ve had your fill of mobile forest-eating sand dunes, simply return the way you came.
More information:
Yeagarup Dunes (Pemberton WA website)
D’Entrecasteaux National Park (Dept of Environment & Conservation)
Pemberton Discovery Tours (look under Beach & Forest Eco Adventure)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »