Archive for March, 2010
Wilderness Views From Mt Chudalup
Wednesday, March 31st, 2010If you’re visiting Northcliffe, in Western Australia’s southern forests, a good side trip is to visit the coastal cliffs of Windy Harbour. However, when driving to the coast it’s easy to whizz straight past Mt Chudalup, as so many do. I reckon it’s worth stopping for the short but scenic climb.
Don’t be misled by the “Mt” prefix. Like most West Australian features labelled as mount something or other, Mt Chudalup is no lofty peak; rather more like a big hill, with a summit altitude of 187 metres. Any reasonably fit person can reach the top with a little effort - it is an uphill walk with some steep bits near the top.
Lack of altitude is no handicap. The surrounding area is mostly low and gently undulating, and Mt Chudalup’s modest height gives a commanding view over forested wilderness stretching to the horizon, or to the coast. It’s a great way to gain a perspective of the area, and just how undeveloped it is.
If you drive between Northcliffe and Walpole, you may notice that the forest is not all the same. There are pockets of gigantic karri trees as seen on the postcards, but between these are patches of marri, jarrah, and other smaller trees. Some sections are hilly and lush, while others are flat, sandy and more open. While you can observe this variation from a car, standing on Mt Chudalup reveals the diversity in a more graphic way, all at once.
To visit, turn up the signposted side road which branches left (if heading towards the coast) 16km south of Northcliffe. A short drive up good gravel brings you to a car park (with a toilet), from where it is about 1.5km walk to the top. An hour is sufficient for most people to do the return walk with a rest on top. More time might be needed if you’re unfit, or it’s hot, or you just want to take your time and properly observe the changing vegetation.
The walk begins in big forest, but as you ascend the trail the surrounds become more open, and lower. At Mt Chudalup’s summit you’ll find bare granite domes - a little steep in places, but providing extensive and unobstructed views. There’s usually a good breeze to cool you down, too. There are also some steep drops which should be treated with caution in high winds; blown-away companions would be hard to retrieve!
Returning is via the same route, and nearly all downhill! Whether you go to better appreciate the environment, or just for a nice view, visiting Mt Chudalup is a short detour and a pleasant addition to a day trip from Northcliffe.
Topics: Walks, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Lake Ohau
Wednesday, March 24th, 2010New Zealand’s south island has some beautiful large lakes. Vistas of pristine waters and snowclad mountain backdrops are associated with names like Tekapo, Pukaki and Wakatipu. Just as beautiful but less well known is Lake Ohau - almost undeveloped, and just far enough from the main roads to miss being seen by passing traffic.
If you’re heading from Christchurch along the inland route to Queenstown, you’ll pass the edge of Lake Tekapo first, followed a little later by Lake Pukaki. Pukaki is famous for its views towards Mt Cook, and the road to Mount Cook village runs along its edge.
Lake Ohau (pronounced oh-how) is the next major lake to the south, however the main road drifts eastwards and misses it completely. This allows most visitors to arrive in the tiny town of Omarama with no awareness of the magnificent lake just beyond their vision to the west.
So if you do take the side road off the main road, 17km north of Omarama, and drive for about 20 minutes west to Lake Ohau, what do you find? Not very much … and that’s part of the attraction for many of us.
The main development is the Lake Ohau ski area and the accompanying lodge at the foot of the access road. This modest lodge, and the ski area with just one chairlift, don’t make much of an impact on the environment. The relative lack of towns and accommodation in the region limit the skier traffic, and the ski season is only for a few months of the year anyway.
Upon reaching the shore of Lake Ohau you’ll find nothing but a stoney lake shore - not even a car park. Stopping to admire and photograph the extensive view up the length of the lake means pulling over to the roadside and walking a short distance across lightly vegetated ground. It’s not hard, but requires a deliberate choice. A far cry from the paved viewpoint with coach parking and signage that draws visitors at Lake Pukaki!
The road continues along the western edge of Lake Ohau. Once past the lodge and ski area turnoff, the road narrows and turns to good gravel. Further down the lake is a small bush reserve, which is a pleasant place to stop and admire the lake shore amidst the trees. It’s a great picnic spot too, assuming you’ve brought everything you need.
I did just that, soaking up the tranquility of a pristine glacial lake with the feeling that I was seeing it pretty much as the first human to go there would have seen it. Well, not quite - there’s less forest than there once was, and some sheep paddocks south of the lake, although these aren’t visible from the lake shore. But compared with most big lakes Ohau has an untouched feel to it.
So why don’t more people go to Lake Ohau? The bulk of tourists passing through are on the long journey between Christchurch and Wanaka or Queenstown. Though not far from the main road, a side trip to Lake Ohau and back is a significant detour in what is already a long drive. Especially for those who have just passed some big lakes and don’t want to go out of their way to see another one.
If you’re travelling independantly with the luxury of time to explore, you’ll share Lake Ohau with just a scattering of fishermen, hlkers or skiers - or maybe nobody else at all.
More information:
Ohau Snow Fields and Lake Ohau Lodge
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Reasons to Avoid January Travel In Australia
Wednesday, March 17th, 2010If you’re thinking of visiting Australia from the northern hemisphere, it might be tempting to visit in January - swapping the cold dark northern winter for the warmth and sunshine of summer down under. While not wanting to discourage anyone, it’s only fair to mention some of the downsides of January travel in Australia.
It may seem odd to emphasise negatives on a website portraying good things about Australia. But while I aim to highlight places overlooked by tourist brochures, highlighting travel challenges overlooked or glossed over by tourist brochures is another way of providing some balance.
Here then are my top reasons why January may not be the best time to visit Australia, and why you’re not likely to find me roaming around at that time:
- Crowds! School holidays run from before Christmas to the end of January (dates vary between states), making it the most crowded time of year. For many Australians it’s the only time they can have a decent break. Peace and quiet can still be found, but you’ll have to look harder for it than at other times of year.
- Accommodation can be booked out well in advance … especially the most desirable or best value places.
- Bargains and discounts are scarce or non-existant. When accommodation can be found, it is nearly always at maximum price.
- Vehicle hire is also harder to book, and more expensive. An example is the campervan I hired in Tasmania for $50 per day in winter - it’s $125 per day in summer, if you can get one.
- The bad side of human behaviour is more apparent - things like noise and drunken antisocial behaviour. Of course people who behave inconsiderately can turn up anywhere, at any time, and Australia is probably no worse than anywhere else … but more of them hit the Australian roads in January than any other month.
- Flies and mosquitoes are out in full force. Although these pests vary a lot in their numbers and timing from place to place, they peak in the hotter months.
- Heat can be excessive away from the southern coasts and mountains. Warm weather might sound appealing if you live somewhere cold, but the novelty can quicky wear off when it stays too hot for too long.
- It is possibly the worst time of year for hiking and camping - a shame when so many of Australia’s attractions are nature based. This is due to the discomfort and dehydrating effects of heat, plus the peak in the abundance of snakes and annoying insects, not to mention a scarcity of drinking water in many places, and the bushfire risk. Exceptions are the alpine areas and Tasmania, though some would argue even these areas are better in spring or autumn.
- Wet season in the tropics means excessive humidity combining with heat to create maximum discomfort. Also tropical cyclones (hurricanes) can cause damage, flooding and road closures.
This beach may look nice ... but the flies could be unbearable, and the sand too hot to walk on with bare feet
Some of these negatives - relating to accommodation, costs and crowds - can be substantially offset by delaying travel until February when school holidays have finished. The other environmental “challenges” still apply then, but can be largely avoided by travelling in spring (Sep-Nov) or autumn (Mar-May) when conditions are more friendly.
Having said all that, plenty of people manage to have enjoyable holidays in Australia in January. It just helps if you have some more realistic expectations than those presented by the travel industry.
More information:
Bureau of Meteorology climate information
- How hot is hot? With a bit of hunting from this page you can get detailed climate information for just about any weather station in Australia.
School Holiday Dates
- This page has links for all the school holiday and public holiday dates for each Australian state
Topics: Odds and Ends | Add Your Comment »