Attractions
« Previous EntriesYeagarup Dunes - Where Sand Invades Forest
Wednesday, February 17th, 2010
The Pemberton area in Western Australia is best known for its spectacular forests of karri and other native trees. But rising suddenly out of this forest - and slowly creeping inland - is an expanse of big sand dunes on the move. These are the Yeagarup Dunes, the largest land-locked mobile dune system in the southern hemisphere.
The sand dunes are about 20km southwest of Pemberton, and are an odd sight when you first come upon them, rising up to 40m above otherwise normal forest. They form a ten kilometre long body of sand being blown inland, swallowing the forest at a rate of about 4 metres each year. Slow, but unstoppable.
Having a look around the dunes, or at least their edges, provides a refreshingly different angle on what is mostly a forested and farmed region. Here are three ways of getting a taste of it.
1. Organised 4WD tour
Pemberton Discovery Tours operate trips in 4WD vehicles with experienced drivers. Although the Yeagarup dunes are “land-locked”, they aren’t far from the coast, and the tour takes you right to a wild deserted beach where the Warren River gently enters the sea. The tour also passes through old growth karri forest, with good descriptions of everything you see.
I’ve done this tour, and learned from the commentary despite being already well acqainted with the region. It’s a great way for non-4WD vehicle owners to see an interesting area few get to see, with someone skilled and experienced to worry about driving safely through some very hair-raising terrain.
2. Do-it-yourself 4WD tour
Anybody with their own four wheel drive vehicle can drive through the Yeagarup dunes to the coast. The catch is that you would need to be confident with driving through deep sand with some very steep slopes, and possibly no-one else around to call on for help if stuck.
3. Do-it-yourself walking tour with conventional car
This option is available to anyone who has a regular two wheel drive car and the willingness to go walking. It’s also the cheapskates option, which may be why it was how I first explored the Yeagarup dunes!
From Pemberton, head towards Nannup on the Vasse Highway. About 12km from Pemberton, turn left down Ritter Road. Thls turnoff is near where Old Vasse Rd (through the Warren National Park) joins the highway. Continue down the gravel Ritter Road, and after a further 11km you’ll reach Yeagarup Lake with its picnic area and toilet. Beyond this point is strictly for four wheel drive vehicles, so if you’re in a regular car, park here.
After taking in the small lake, proceed on foot down the sandy track which is a continuation of Ritter Rd. Not far down this track a wall of sand is encountered, appearing very out of place in the thick forest. The exact spot where you leave the track to climb the dunes will vary from year to year, but should be clear enough when you come to it. Remember to keep an ear open for approaching vehicles, and be ready to quickly move aside off the sometimes narrow track.
Once up on the sand, you’re in another world. To one side spreads a view over low forest, dense and green, while on the other stretches just sand - and lots of it. Part beach-like, part desert-like, it forms a stark contrast to the surroundings.
Away from any vegetation, you can pretend to be in part of the Sahara desert, and take suitable photos. Sand-boarding could be an option if you’ve got something to slide down large dunes on. Otherwise, just going for a wander to explore the dunes - wherever takes your fancy - can pass the time pleasantly. The coast is too far for a return day walk, but there’s plenty of sand to explore.
I should point out that walking in the soft sand can be sweaty work, even in winter, so a drink bottle might be appreciated. Also, if you plan on walking far, look back and take a mental picture of where you entered the dunes … to help you find the exit point later! Some days finding your way out may be easy. On cloudy days, with fresh tracks scarce and footprints wind-covered, it may not be so obvious.
When you’ve had your fill of mobile forest-eating sand dunes, simply return the way you came.
More information:
Yeagarup Dunes (Pemberton WA website)
D’Entrecasteaux National Park (Dept of Environment & Conservation)
Pemberton Discovery Tours (look under Beach & Forest Eco Adventure)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Merredin Railway Station Museum
Monday, December 21st, 2009Many country towns have small historical museums, and standards vary. One which I found to be rather interesting and well done is in the Western Australian town of Merredin, and although it focuses on railway history there is more to it than train memorabilia.
Merredin, with around 3000 people theses days, is an important wheatbelt service town mid-way between Perth and Kalgoorlie. In older days it gained importance not just for agriculture but with its strategic location en route to the flourishing goldfields. Railways played a large role in the area’s history, so it seems appropriate that a museum be located in the old railway station building.
The Merredin Railway Station Museum is right near the centre of town - next to the main highway heading east but largely overlooked by the busy passing traffic. Upon entering and paying the small fee (adults $4 when I visited in 2009) you are given a little booklet which serves as a good guide to the museum. One of the impressions I left with was just how well organised and labelled the collection was. Whatever your level of interest may be, there is enough detail to feed it.
Plenty of photos and written descriptions fill the rooms of the old station, including the early settler women’s room, but here they play a supporting role. Central to the collection is an abundance of diverse objects: genuine artefacts from the past. Most are connected in some way with the railways, but not all.
One which caught my interest was a wheelbarrow used by prospectors to haul their gear from Perth to the goldfields before the railways arrived. I’d read how they used to push their loads hundreds of kilometres across untamed land, but to see one of these heavy-looking wheelbarrows in real life gave me new respect for the challenges people faced back then … and the difference the railways must have made.
Outside, the platforms provide an open-air collection of larger objects. Parked on one railway track is an assortment of train carriages and engines, including a steam engine waiting to be restored. While I was there a bunch of children amused themselves happily pretending to be engine drivers. You can also climb up into the signal cabin where a mass of levers control the surrounding tracks, while catching a view of the town.
Train buffs and boys of all ages will probably find this museum most appealing. However anyone with an interest in scratching beneath the surface to get a feel for the area’s history should get something out of it. Check with the visitors centre in Merredin for current opening times.
More information:
Merredin Railway Museum
Central Wheatbelt Visitor Centre (Merredin)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Mt John Observatory At Lake Tekapo
Friday, October 30th, 2009An observatory may not be on everyone’s travel itinerary, but if you pass through Lake Tekapo in New Zealand’s south island then a visit to the Mt John Observatory can be worth doing. You don’t need to be an astronomy buff to become lost in wonder at what you may see.
Mt John is a large hill overlooking Lake Tekapo, just a short drive from the town. What makes it such a great spot for an observatory are the incredibly clear skies it enjoys from its position in the Mackenzie basin - in the rain shadow of the alps, with one of the country’s driest climates. The extra altitude of Mt John, about 1000m, means even less atmosphere between the telescopes and the stars.
The observatory is run by the University of Canterbury, and offers both night and daytime tours. These begin from the Earth and Sky Observatory Tours shop in the middle of town (own transport not needed). I did both tours, starting with the most popular one at night. After being transported up the hill to the observatory buildings, some of the astronomers who work there showed us around, explained their work, and pointed out a variety of features in the sky while we stood outside. It was amazing how much could be seen with the naked eye in such clear conditions, especially with someone knowledgable to show where to look and what to look for.
Inside the observatory domes, the telescopes were aimed at a selection of interesting objects which everyone took turns to look at. More time was spent waiting for a turn than actually looking through telescopes, which is unavoidable in a group situation. However the staff made sure everyone had their fair share, and their commentary, and answers to numerous curly questions, kept us interested while waiting.
The next day, I was the sole person on an afternoon tour. Being daylight, looking through telescopes wasn’t on the menu. Instead, the focus was on other observatory buildings and the extent of astronomical work that goes on at Mt John. Of note was their MOA (Microlensing Observations in Astrophysics) project, in which a sophisticated telescope uses gravitational microlensing (I won’t try to explain it) to detect planets around distant stars. Many such planets have been found using this cutting edge science.
A few things left impressions on me. One was the incredible clarity of the night sky - I’ve seen many clear skies in inland Australia, but the brightness of the stars on a clear frosty night at Mt John rivalled the best of them. Another was the passion and enthusiasm of the astronomers I met - refreshing to experience in a world where mediocrity and disinterest is all too common. I was also left with an invigorated sense of wonder at both the scale of the universe, and the genius of the people and technology involved in studying it.
Nearly everyone who visits New Zealand passes through Lake Tekapo (it’s on the route to Mount Cook and Queenstown), but most only stop for photos and to use the toilets. For anyone able to linger, a visit to the Mt John observatory can add a unique dimension to a kiwi holiday, and many reasons to say “wow!”
Winter view over Lake Tekapo. Even if not touring the observatory, the views and the cafe can be worth a visit.
Links:
About the Mt John Observatory (by Tekapo Tourism)
Earth and Sky Observatory Tours
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Relaxed And Natural Stewart Island
Saturday, April 18th, 2009
Visiting some places can leave a lasting impression: one you can still feel years later without needing holiday photos to trigger memories. For me, one such place is Stewart Island, off the south end of New Zealand’s south island.
Most foreign visitors don’t make it that far south. To get to Stewart Island requires travelling to Invercargill, almost at the southernmost point of the mainland. From there it is either a one hour ferry ride from nearby Bluff, or a twenty minute flight. I’d heard the ferry crossing is notoriously rough, so I opted for the fllght, only to find the ride in the six passenger plane to also be very turbulent. However, it was worth whatever discomfort the G-forces inflicted.
As soon as the plane landed, it became apparent how unlike other tourist destinations Stewart Island is. The airport is a short strip on a hilltop, with just a couple of wind socks the only other structures. The pilot, who also issued the tickets at Invercargill, proceeded to unload luggage into the small van that drove right up to the plane. It was by far the most laid-back airport arrival I’ve experienced. A short ride in the mini-van brought us to Halfmoon Bay - comprised of just 390 people, it is the only settlement on the 60km long island, of which 85% is national park.
Halfmoon Bay, where the ferry arrives
Apart from the hotel/pub, a cafe and one shop, there is little to occupy those needing night-life and shopping. But that’s not what people come to Stewart Island for. The real drawcards are the simpler, slower lifestyle, and an unspoilt natural environment which includes lush rainforest, pristine beaches and waterways, plus an abundance of unique wildlife.
Two of my reasons for visiting Stewart Island were to hike the Rakiura Track, and view the birdlife on Ulva Island; I’ll write separately about these another time. Other people’s visits include hiking and wildlife viewing in other places, plus boating, kayaking, diving, fishing and hunting. While there are organised tours, cruises and guided walks, you can do many of these things on your own.
My third reason for visiting - one shared by most - was to simply relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Where better to do this than a place where nothing feels urgent, where ATMs and fast food don’t exist yet, where heavy traffic is impossible, and where the enchanted forest and native wildlife is much as it was before people came along.
Oban town centre
The Stewart Island website says it well: “our Island offers a special experience - a glimpse into a simpler, slower lifestyle, in rhythm with the sea and the tides, attuned to the natural world of bush and beach.” I can attest that there is no exaggeration in that statement, my delightful stay having done wonders for my mental health.
I left Stewart Island feeling refreshed, and glad that such places still exist. I was also in a dilemma - wanting to share this great treasure with other travellers, but at the same time wanting it to remain overlooked and therefore unspoiled by crowds. Fortunately the limited plane and ferry capacity, and the limited accommodation, impose strict on the numbers who can go there at any one time. Hopefully this will keep the island from being loved to death.
Golden Bay
Links:
Stewart Island - about the island, activities, facilities
Stewart Island Experience - ferry service, cruises
Stewart Island Flights - to the island, and remote parts of it
Note - Regular flights cost more than the ferry, but the extra cost of getting to Bluff to catch the ferry, as opposed to Invercargill airport, offsets some of the difference. If time permits, using standby fares can make flying cheaper. Flying one way and catching the ferry the other way is another option.
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | 2 Comments »
The Overlooked Mt King William, Tasmania
Monday, April 13th, 2009
Do you recognise the Tasmanian mountain in this photo? Most would either have no idea which it is, or else confuse it with the more famous Cradle Mountain, which is similar. If you recognised it as Mt King William 1 (without needing to read the text) … congratulations, you’re one of the few.
The first of three main peaks in the King William Range shares much with Cradle Mountain. Both are part of Tasmania’s central highlands, of comparable height, similar geology, and are regularly snowcapped in winter. Most notable is the strikingly similar shape, at least at first glance. However that’s where the similarities end. Cradle Mountain is a Tasmanian icon which every visitor travels far to get a glimpse of, whereas most of those same visitors drive right past Mt King William 1 without even stopping.
This overlooked and under-appreciated mountain is located near the middle of Tasmania - just south of the Lyell Highway which connects Hobart with the west coast. It’s only about 10km west of Derwent Bridge (the turn-off to Lake St Clair), and can be viewed from a small roadside rest area right on the divide between west- and east-flowing rivers. Being near the highway’s highest point (981m), the area can sometimes be in cloud … which could account for some not realising the mountain is there.
The rest area beside Lyell Highway
If Mt King William 1 is visible, I can recommend a rest stop to “smell the roses” and absorb the views. A little cloud can be a good thing, as varying light can quickly change the mood. Some small ponds also provide photo opportunities, and the fresh highland air can be invigorating after sitting in a car.
Virtually every visitor to Tasmania passes along this road. All it takes to enjoy a mountain which most barely notice is the decision to stop (weather permitting) and enjoy more of the journey, instead of pressing on to the destination.
Link:
Google map showing location of Mt King William 1 roadside rest area
Topics: Attractions, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Maniototo: A Different New Zealand
Sunday, March 1st, 2009
This post concerns the part of Central Otago shown blue and green (map from Central Otago website)
The Maniototo region is a part of New Zealand’s south island between Dunedin and Queenstown which is bypassed by most foreign visitors. This is a shame, as they are missing out on a beautiful part of the country that’s distinctly different from the rest.
I missed out on it for a long time too, because the main transport routes used by travellers bypass the area. It wasn’t until my last trip, when I made the effort to “fill in the blanks” using a hire car, that I was rewarded with what has become one of my favourite bits of kiwiland.
The area known as Maniototo consists of elevated plains separated by mountain ranges with interesting rock formations and little in the way of development, other than farms. Towns include Middlemarch, Ranfurly, Naseby, St Bathans, Oturehua, Omakau and Ophir, but don’t be surprised if you haven’t heard of any of them. Ranfurly is the largest with a population of only 400, and St Bathans has about 7. That’s one of the area’s features: lots of wide open spaces without crowds.
Another feature is the climate. The central Otago region, which includes Maniototo, is further from the sea than elswhere in New Zealand and has the country’s nearest thing to a continental climate. This means low rainfall, sparse vegetation, and New Zealand’s coldest winters and warmest summers. Many ponds and lakes freeze in winter and are used for the sport of curling. Frosts can be spectacular - for those who appreciate their beauty - and the warm, dry summer days draw locals from the cooler coastal areas.
While not boasting mega tourist magnets like other areas, the Maniototo area is not without attractions. The Otago Central Rail Trail is becoming a popular way to explore the area between Middlemarch and Clyde (near Alexandra). Ranfurly has it’s art-deco weekend, Naseby has some of the best mountain biking trails in New Zealand, and in winter curling is played on the area’s ice rinks or lakes. Fishing, horse-trekking and four wheel drive tours are on offer, and the region’s gold-mining history adds some ambience, particularly in the ghost town of St Bathans.
When I visited, I wandered in the forests around Naseby, hiked a section of the rail trail, and visited some historic sites. I particularly enjoyed cruising the almost empty roads and stopping to explore towns and rock features on foot. The only traffic jam I experienced was a flock of sheep blocking a back road, but by then I had relaxed so much it provided not annoyance, but an excuse to stop and gaze at the mountains …. which are never far away.
The beauty of Maniototo is not dramatic and “in your face” like it is in other parts of New Zealand. Instead it has a subtle charm and unique character that grows on you … it certainly grew on me. In future posts I’ll share more of what I found in this special part of New Zealand.
Links:
Maniototo - general introduction by the Maniototo Information Centre
Central Otago - more details from Tourism Central Otago
Otago Central Rail Trail - all about the rail trail and the area’s facilities, with a good downloadable map of the region
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Matukituki Valley, New Zealand
Saturday, January 31st, 2009
One of my many favourite parts of New Zealand is the Matukituki Valley, located near Wanaka in the south island. Apart from a gravel road and some sheep farms lower down, there is no development up this spectacular valley which curves towards the Matterhorn-like Mt Aspiring. Just rugged snow capped mountains, a sparkling crystal clear river, and enough serenity to help with appreciating it.
Most visitors to New Zealand get to glimpse the bottom end of the Matukituki Valley, which is visible across the lake from Wanaka. Skiers who leave the main trails at the Treble Cone ski area can get a good view up this valley, which is how I first became aware of it - and tempted by its allure.
When I next returned to the area with a hire car, I set out to discover what I’d admired from afar. After the ski area turn-off the road turns to gravel, but is of a good standard. The only hiccup could be where the road fords a few small creeks - fine most of the year, but high water levels during the spring melt could occasionally be an obstacle. Even if this is the case, travelling as far as the first ford is still a worthwhile excursion.
As I cruised up the valley, sheep paddocks gave way to increasing amounts of beech forest. Changing vistas of untamed river, forest, snow-capped mountains and glaciers made the drive delightfully scenic and memorable.
Some great hikes can be accessed from the road’s end, which mean the road is well travelled by hikers in the warmer months. But if you visit in winter, as I did, you might share the valley with very few others. Hikers are scarce in winter due to the weather and avalanche risk, and it’s the non-fishing season, so solitude and a tangible sense of being in a wilderness can be enjoyed.
That’s what I did … I just chilled out by the river, soaking up the unblemished scenery and sense of wilderness, and pondering which walks I might do on my next visit to the Matukituki Valley.
Links:
NZ Department of Conservation - Matukituki Valley info
Google map of Matukituki Valley location
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Elephant Rocks, WA
Monday, January 26th, 2009Having visited Elephant Rocks in New Zealand, I was keen to also check out Elephant Rocks in Western Australia to compare them, and see which ones look most like elephants.
Western Australia’s version are on the south coast at William Bay National Park, just west of the town of Denmark. Eroded from granite, they sit on the beach and in the shallow waters of a quiet sheltered bay. From some angles, some of them do in fact look a bit like elephants as viewed from the rear, minus the legs and other appendages. Whatever they look like, they provide a pleasant and distinctive backdrop to a beautiful swimming area, and are well worth visiting together with nearby Green’s Pool.
The resemblance to elephants is where the similarity with their NZ counterparts ends. The WA version have different geological origins, are coastal rather than inland, and have never formed part of a film set. On a warm summer day the WA rocks can become crowded with sightseers and swimmers, as they were when I visited last week.
As to which Elephant Rocks most resemble elephants, I’d have to give my vote to the WA version, but in both cases the imagination needs to be exercised.
For the record, three other formations named “Elephant Rocks” which I’m aware of, but will probably never visit, are at:
- Elephant Rocks State Park, Missouri, USA
- Elephant Rocks Municipal Golf Course, Williams, Arizona, USA
- Elephant Rocks, off Anvers Island, Antarctic Peninsula
The first two are named after rocks which resemble elephants, and the third is a habitat for elephant seals.
Links:
Google map showing Elephant Rocks (WA) location
Elephant Rocks & Elephant Cove - from Rainbow Coast website (great photos)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »