Attractions
« Previous EntriesEating Pleasure In Suburban Melbourne - Maling Road
Sunday, July 18th, 2010Most large cities have streets or districts which are known for their shops and cafes. In Melbourne such eating zones include Lygon St Carlton, Brunswick St Fitzroy, and Acland St in St Kilda. But there are other gems hiding out in the suburbs, and I stumbled across a good one last month.
The area is the shopping precinct of Maling Road in Canterbury, an inner eastern suburb of Melbourne. It’s a great little area for cafes, gourmet foods and quality coffee … and there are some interesting shops too.
I found the area because I’m a coffee enthusiast. One of the most revered coffee houses in Melbourne (according to the CoffeeSnobs website) is the Maling Room cafe in Canterbury, so when passing through Melbourne I made the short train trip out of the city to try it out.
The Maling Room proved worthy of its reputation, with coffee worth travelling for. Their food was good too, and being located inside a historic post office building added to its charm. But when I stepped outside to explore the street I realised my discoveries had only begun.
A few doors down was Browns: Bakers of Distinction - and I was lured inside by a range of bakery goodies that made me drool. Their offerings can be eaten, with coffee, in their cafe area … and so I did.
With bits of a roast pumpkin and fetta muffin still lurking in my mouth, I was drawn into another small shop named Xocolatl - specialising in unique hand-made chocolates … and coffee. Of course I had to try some. Magnificent, and not surprisingly it was very well patronised by the locals.
Then I noticed, across the road, Bambaleros Freshly Roasted Coffee. This cafe roasts its own beans in a roaster positioned proudly at the back of the small premises. Being a Coffeesnobs member, I had to try some, and it was good. So was their food.
Next I looked inside Weatherson Foods, another small shop (they’re all small) specialising in “ready made meals and finger food to take home”. It too had a small cafe section for dining in. I would have snaffled one of their delicious looking creations for lunch later, had I not already acquired sufficient lunch from Browns.
Cornelius cheese, wine and coffee also competed for my gastronomic attention, but for some reason I was no longer hungry. Likewise I reluctantly passed by Wilson & Walsh gourmet deli and eatery, which also functioned as a cafe. I’m saving them for my next visit.
It’s not all cafes and gourmet food - sweet tooths are catered for at A Pocket Of Lollies. This is an old fashioned lolly shop (known elsewhere as a candy store) packed with a vast array of sweet delights. Shops like it are rare these days.
Sweetness could also be found at Bohemia Cakes, a cafe describing itself as “a taste of Europe”. There were several other attractive cafes I didn’t venture into. Sorry Cafe Eden, Cafe 88 and Ruby T - even a coffee snob can only drink so much caffeine in one morning.
Still on a food theme, Maling Road also has two small fruit shops selling fruit and veges which looked fresh, and some out of the ordinary food items. They are reminiscent of the days before supermarkets came to dominate, when people relied upon a variety of small specialty shops like these in their local main street.
Other Maling Road shops sell gifts, antiques, boutique clothing,fine art, china & crystal, books, beauty therapy, and interior design. Of course there are more everyday shops too, like the pharmacy, post office, hair salons and grocery shop.
Notable by their absence were multinationals and big chain stores. Apart from IGA and Bakers Delight (both Australian and locally owned) and Browns (11 bakeries across Melbourne), all the shops and eateries in Maling Road are independant one-offs. This makes the area refreshingly different from the uniformity of the average shopping centre.
Apart from filling my belly and reassuring me that unique independant shops can still thrive, my visit to Maling Road illustrated something travel has taught me - suburbs aren’t necessarily boring. The local business association describes Maling Road as a “charming shopping village” with a “special ambiance” - and I think they’re right.
By all means visit the well known eating areas - they’re usually well known for good reason. But don’t be afraid to venture into suburbs you might not have heard of - you just don’t know what goodies you may find there.
More information:
Maling Road Business Association - all about the shopping area, including a store directory and map.
The Maling Road shops start at the intersection of Canterbury Road - right next to Canterbury train station. This station is 15 or 20 minutes east of Flinders St in the city, within zone 1, and all Lilydale and Belgrave trains stop there.
Topics: Attractions, Victoria | Add Your Comment »
Pupu Springs
Wednesday, June 16th, 2010
Places with interesting names usually draw my attention, so when I came across a sign for Pupu Springs I just had to have a look. Despite the unsanitory sounding name, it turned out to be a place of purity and beauty.
The real name is Te Waikoropupu Springs, so it’s not surprising it gets abbreviated to Pupu. You’ll find it in the northwest corner of New Zealand’s south island, in a region referred to as Golden Bay. The springs (in the Te Waikoropupu Springs Scenic Reserve) are a short drive off the main road, not far to the west of the area’s main town of Takaka. If you’re exploring the area, you don’t need to detour much.
What you’ll find is a pleasant nature reserve containing native trees, bubbling creeks, and what some claim is the purest spring water in the world. I’m not sure how true that is - I’ve seen grand claims for water purity elsewhere - but when you look at it, the Pupu water is indeed remarkably crystal clear. I thought I’d seen clean creek water before, but this was in a higher class.
The great thing about the reserve at Pupu Springs - well, I liked it - is the way you can appreciate it by wandering around the gentle walk trails. The walk alone would have been good enough, but the incredibly pure spring water gurgling among the pure and natural-looking landscape made it delightful. Definitely a short sightseeing stop I didn’t regret.
More information:
Te Waikoropupu Springs (NZ Dept of Conservation)
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Mulka’s Cave
Friday, May 21st, 2010Not long ago I was passing by Wave Rock, one of Western Australia’s well known attractions, and so I dropped in for a look. But the famous rock wasn’t the highlight of that day for me: instead it was a less-visited site not far away, known as Mulka’s Cave.
Most tourist literature on Wave Rock mentions other things to visit in the area, and one of these is Mulka’s Cave. Tour buses do stop there, however Wave Rock gets nearly all the attention, leaving Mulka’s Cave relatively overshadowed. If you’ve driven all the way to Wave Rock - and it’s a long way from anywhere - it’s a pity not to go a little further and see something unique.
Mulka’s Cave is about 18km beyond Wave Rock, near Hyden in Western Australia’s wheatbelt. Much of the road there is sealed, and the last gravel section is good. What you find at the end of it is a low hill of granite with a small cave at its base - looking a little like the mouth of a whale shark.
Entering the cave involves just a short walk along a flat path, then up a gentle ramp to a platform. There’s no fee - you just turn up and go in. The cave isn’t large, and doesn’t have stalactites (it’s granite), but if you look closely at the walls and ceiling you’ll see what makes this little nook different - an assortment of ancient Aboriginal cave paintings.
At first there doesn’t appear to be much to see, but once your eyes grow accustomed to the low light, images become clearer. There are hand stencils, plus depictions of the animals used as food in this area. Some are hard to spot and may require some manouvering up the sloping floor in order to better see out-of-the-way parts of the ceiling. The harder you look for the markings, the more you see.
The art in Mulka’s Cave is believed to be around 3000 years old according to a WA museum report I read. On the other hand, another internet source claimed 30000 years, and the Aborigines would have been around back then. In any case, the cave paintings are very old. They are also associated with the legend of Mulka, an ancient character whose story you can read all about at the cave.
There are also some pleasant walks from the car park, which complement the cave and make a visit even more worthwhile. My legs definitely appreciated a walk after a long drive.
A short loop trail passes through a range of local vegetation, and reveals fine examples of a gnamma hole and a lizard trap used by Aboriginals in millenia past. The gnamma hole is a rock waterhole which retains water long after rain, and the lizard trap in this case is simply a slab of granite propped up on stones. They may be basic, but features like these helped the Aboriginals thrive, and there are information signs to fill you in on the details.
So if you’re visiting Wave Rock, I can recommend going a little further to Mulka’s Cave. You won’t just see ancient paintings - you’ll get an interesting glimpse into a culture that was around long before any Romans thought of starting an empire.
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Lake Ohau
Wednesday, March 24th, 2010New Zealand’s south island has some beautiful large lakes. Vistas of pristine waters and snowclad mountain backdrops are associated with names like Tekapo, Pukaki and Wakatipu. Just as beautiful but less well known is Lake Ohau - almost undeveloped, and just far enough from the main roads to miss being seen by passing traffic.
If you’re heading from Christchurch along the inland route to Queenstown, you’ll pass the edge of Lake Tekapo first, followed a little later by Lake Pukaki. Pukaki is famous for its views towards Mt Cook, and the road to Mount Cook village runs along its edge.
Lake Ohau (pronounced oh-how) is the next major lake to the south, however the main road drifts eastwards and misses it completely. This allows most visitors to arrive in the tiny town of Omarama with no awareness of the magnificent lake just beyond their vision to the west.
So if you do take the side road off the main road, 17km north of Omarama, and drive for about 20 minutes west to Lake Ohau, what do you find? Not very much … and that’s part of the attraction for many of us.
The main development is the Lake Ohau ski area and the accompanying lodge at the foot of the access road. This modest lodge, and the ski area with just one chairlift, don’t make much of an impact on the environment. The relative lack of towns and accommodation in the region limit the skier traffic, and the ski season is only for a few months of the year anyway.
Upon reaching the shore of Lake Ohau you’ll find nothing but a stoney lake shore - not even a car park. Stopping to admire and photograph the extensive view up the length of the lake means pulling over to the roadside and walking a short distance across lightly vegetated ground. It’s not hard, but requires a deliberate choice. A far cry from the paved viewpoint with coach parking and signage that draws visitors at Lake Pukaki!
The road continues along the western edge of Lake Ohau. Once past the lodge and ski area turnoff, the road narrows and turns to good gravel. Further down the lake is a small bush reserve, which is a pleasant place to stop and admire the lake shore amidst the trees. It’s a great picnic spot too, assuming you’ve brought everything you need.
I did just that, soaking up the tranquility of a pristine glacial lake with the feeling that I was seeing it pretty much as the first human to go there would have seen it. Well, not quite - there’s less forest than there once was, and some sheep paddocks south of the lake, although these aren’t visible from the lake shore. But compared with most big lakes Ohau has an untouched feel to it.
So why don’t more people go to Lake Ohau? The bulk of tourists passing through are on the long journey between Christchurch and Wanaka or Queenstown. Though not far from the main road, a side trip to Lake Ohau and back is a significant detour in what is already a long drive. Especially for those who have just passed some big lakes and don’t want to go out of their way to see another one.
If you’re travelling independantly with the luxury of time to explore, you’ll share Lake Ohau with just a scattering of fishermen, hlkers or skiers - or maybe nobody else at all.
More information:
Ohau Snow Fields and Lake Ohau Lodge
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Yeagarup Dunes - Where Sand Invades Forest
Wednesday, February 17th, 2010
The Pemberton area in Western Australia is best known for its spectacular forests of karri and other native trees. But rising suddenly out of this forest - and slowly creeping inland - is an expanse of big sand dunes on the move. These are the Yeagarup Dunes, the largest land-locked mobile dune system in the southern hemisphere.
The sand dunes are about 20km southwest of Pemberton, and are an odd sight when you first come upon them, rising up to 40m above otherwise normal forest. They form a ten kilometre long body of sand being blown inland, swallowing the forest at a rate of about 4 metres each year. Slow, but unstoppable.
Having a look around the dunes, or at least their edges, provides a refreshingly different angle on what is mostly a forested and farmed region. Here are three ways of getting a taste of it.
1. Organised 4WD tour
Pemberton Discovery Tours operate trips in 4WD vehicles with experienced drivers. Although the Yeagarup dunes are “land-locked”, they aren’t far from the coast, and the tour takes you right to a wild deserted beach where the Warren River gently enters the sea. The tour also passes through old growth karri forest, with good descriptions of everything you see.
I’ve done this tour, and learned from the commentary despite being already well acqainted with the region. It’s a great way for non-4WD vehicle owners to see an interesting area few get to see, with someone skilled and experienced to worry about driving safely through some very hair-raising terrain.
2. Do-it-yourself 4WD tour
Anybody with their own four wheel drive vehicle can drive through the Yeagarup dunes to the coast. The catch is that you would need to be confident with driving through deep sand with some very steep slopes, and possibly no-one else around to call on for help if stuck.
3. Do-it-yourself walking tour with conventional car
This option is available to anyone who has a regular two wheel drive car and the willingness to go walking. It’s also the cheapskates option, which may be why it was how I first explored the Yeagarup dunes!
From Pemberton, head towards Nannup on the Vasse Highway. About 12km from Pemberton, turn left down Ritter Road. Thls turnoff is near where Old Vasse Rd (through the Warren National Park) joins the highway. Continue down the gravel Ritter Road, and after a further 11km you’ll reach Yeagarup Lake with its picnic area and toilet. Beyond this point is strictly for four wheel drive vehicles, so if you’re in a regular car, park here.
After taking in the small lake, proceed on foot down the sandy track which is a continuation of Ritter Rd. Not far down this track a wall of sand is encountered, appearing very out of place in the thick forest. The exact spot where you leave the track to climb the dunes will vary from year to year, but should be clear enough when you come to it. Remember to keep an ear open for approaching vehicles, and be ready to quickly move aside off the sometimes narrow track.
Once up on the sand, you’re in another world. To one side spreads a view over low forest, dense and green, while on the other stretches just sand - and lots of it. Part beach-like, part desert-like, it forms a stark contrast to the surroundings.
Away from any vegetation, you can pretend to be in part of the Sahara desert, and take suitable photos. Sand-boarding could be an option if you’ve got something to slide down large dunes on. Otherwise, just going for a wander to explore the dunes - wherever takes your fancy - can pass the time pleasantly. The coast is too far for a return day walk, but there’s plenty of sand to explore.
I should point out that walking in the soft sand can be sweaty work, even in winter, so a drink bottle might be appreciated. Also, if you plan on walking far, look back and take a mental picture of where you entered the dunes … to help you find the exit point later! Some days finding your way out may be easy. On cloudy days, with fresh tracks scarce and footprints wind-covered, it may not be so obvious.
When you’ve had your fill of mobile forest-eating sand dunes, simply return the way you came.
More information:
Yeagarup Dunes (Pemberton WA website)
D’Entrecasteaux National Park (Dept of Environment & Conservation)
Pemberton Discovery Tours (look under Beach & Forest Eco Adventure)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Merredin Railway Station Museum
Monday, December 21st, 2009Many country towns have small historical museums, and standards vary. One which I found to be rather interesting and well done is in the Western Australian town of Merredin, and although it focuses on railway history there is more to it than train memorabilia.
Merredin, with around 3000 people theses days, is an important wheatbelt service town mid-way between Perth and Kalgoorlie. In older days it gained importance not just for agriculture but with its strategic location en route to the flourishing goldfields. Railways played a large role in the area’s history, so it seems appropriate that a museum be located in the old railway station building.
The Merredin Railway Station Museum is right near the centre of town - next to the main highway heading east but largely overlooked by the busy passing traffic. Upon entering and paying the small fee (adults $4 when I visited in 2009) you are given a little booklet which serves as a good guide to the museum. One of the impressions I left with was just how well organised and labelled the collection was. Whatever your level of interest may be, there is enough detail to feed it.
Plenty of photos and written descriptions fill the rooms of the old station, including the early settler women’s room, but here they play a supporting role. Central to the collection is an abundance of diverse objects: genuine artefacts from the past. Most are connected in some way with the railways, but not all.
One which caught my interest was a wheelbarrow used by prospectors to haul their gear from Perth to the goldfields before the railways arrived. I’d read how they used to push their loads hundreds of kilometres across untamed land, but to see one of these heavy-looking wheelbarrows in real life gave me new respect for the challenges people faced back then … and the difference the railways must have made.
Outside, the platforms provide an open-air collection of larger objects. Parked on one railway track is an assortment of train carriages and engines, including a steam engine waiting to be restored. While I was there a bunch of children amused themselves happily pretending to be engine drivers. You can also climb up into the signal cabin where a mass of levers control the surrounding tracks, while catching a view of the town.
Train buffs and boys of all ages will probably find this museum most appealing. However anyone with an interest in scratching beneath the surface to get a feel for the area’s history should get something out of it. Check with the visitors centre in Merredin for current opening times.
More information:
Merredin Railway Museum
Central Wheatbelt Visitor Centre (Merredin)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Mt John Observatory At Lake Tekapo
Friday, October 30th, 2009An observatory may not be on everyone’s travel itinerary, but if you pass through Lake Tekapo in New Zealand’s south island then a visit to the Mt John Observatory can be worth doing. You don’t need to be an astronomy buff to become lost in wonder at what you may see.
Mt John is a large hill overlooking Lake Tekapo, just a short drive from the town. What makes it such a great spot for an observatory are the incredibly clear skies it enjoys from its position in the Mackenzie basin - in the rain shadow of the alps, with one of the country’s driest climates. The extra altitude of Mt John, about 1000m, means even less atmosphere between the telescopes and the stars.
The observatory is run by the University of Canterbury, and offers both night and daytime tours. These begin from the Earth and Sky Observatory Tours shop in the middle of town (own transport not needed). I did both tours, starting with the most popular one at night. After being transported up the hill to the observatory buildings, some of the astronomers who work there showed us around, explained their work, and pointed out a variety of features in the sky while we stood outside. It was amazing how much could be seen with the naked eye in such clear conditions, especially with someone knowledgable to show where to look and what to look for.
Inside the observatory domes, the telescopes were aimed at a selection of interesting objects which everyone took turns to look at. More time was spent waiting for a turn than actually looking through telescopes, which is unavoidable in a group situation. However the staff made sure everyone had their fair share, and their commentary, and answers to numerous curly questions, kept us interested while waiting.
The next day, I was the sole person on an afternoon tour. Being daylight, looking through telescopes wasn’t on the menu. Instead, the focus was on other observatory buildings and the extent of astronomical work that goes on at Mt John. Of note was their MOA (Microlensing Observations in Astrophysics) project, in which a sophisticated telescope uses gravitational microlensing (I won’t try to explain it) to detect planets around distant stars. Many such planets have been found using this cutting edge science.
A few things left impressions on me. One was the incredible clarity of the night sky - I’ve seen many clear skies in inland Australia, but the brightness of the stars on a clear frosty night at Mt John rivalled the best of them. Another was the passion and enthusiasm of the astronomers I met - refreshing to experience in a world where mediocrity and disinterest is all too common. I was also left with an invigorated sense of wonder at both the scale of the universe, and the genius of the people and technology involved in studying it.
Nearly everyone who visits New Zealand passes through Lake Tekapo (it’s on the route to Mount Cook and Queenstown), but most only stop for photos and to use the toilets. For anyone able to linger, a visit to the Mt John observatory can add a unique dimension to a kiwi holiday, and many reasons to say “wow!”
Winter view over Lake Tekapo. Even if not touring the observatory, the views and the cafe can be worth a visit.
Links:
About the Mt John Observatory (by Tekapo Tourism)
Earth and Sky Observatory Tours
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Relaxed And Natural Stewart Island
Saturday, April 18th, 2009
Visiting some places can leave a lasting impression: one you can still feel years later without needing holiday photos to trigger memories. For me, one such place is Stewart Island, off the south end of New Zealand’s south island.
Most foreign visitors don’t make it that far south. To get to Stewart Island requires travelling to Invercargill, almost at the southernmost point of the mainland. From there it is either a one hour ferry ride from nearby Bluff, or a twenty minute flight. I’d heard the ferry crossing is notoriously rough, so I opted for the fllght, only to find the ride in the six passenger plane to also be very turbulent. However, it was worth whatever discomfort the G-forces inflicted.
As soon as the plane landed, it became apparent how unlike other tourist destinations Stewart Island is. The airport is a short strip on a hilltop, with just a couple of wind socks the only other structures. The pilot, who also issued the tickets at Invercargill, proceeded to unload luggage into the small van that drove right up to the plane. It was by far the most laid-back airport arrival I’ve experienced. A short ride in the mini-van brought us to Halfmoon Bay - comprised of just 390 people, it is the only settlement on the 60km long island, of which 85% is national park.
Halfmoon Bay, where the ferry arrives
Apart from the hotel/pub, a cafe and one shop, there is little to occupy those needing night-life and shopping. But that’s not what people come to Stewart Island for. The real drawcards are the simpler, slower lifestyle, and an unspoilt natural environment which includes lush rainforest, pristine beaches and waterways, plus an abundance of unique wildlife.
Two of my reasons for visiting Stewart Island were to hike the Rakiura Track, and view the birdlife on Ulva Island; I’ll write separately about these another time. Other people’s visits include hiking and wildlife viewing in other places, plus boating, kayaking, diving, fishing and hunting. While there are organised tours, cruises and guided walks, you can do many of these things on your own.
My third reason for visiting - one shared by most - was to simply relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Where better to do this than a place where nothing feels urgent, where ATMs and fast food don’t exist yet, where heavy traffic is impossible, and where the enchanted forest and native wildlife is much as it was before people came along.
Oban town centre
The Stewart Island website says it well: “our Island offers a special experience - a glimpse into a simpler, slower lifestyle, in rhythm with the sea and the tides, attuned to the natural world of bush and beach.” I can attest that there is no exaggeration in that statement, my delightful stay having done wonders for my mental health.
I left Stewart Island feeling refreshed, and glad that such places still exist. I was also in a dilemma - wanting to share this great treasure with other travellers, but at the same time wanting it to remain overlooked and therefore unspoiled by crowds. Fortunately the limited plane and ferry capacity, and the limited accommodation, impose strict on the numbers who can go there at any one time. Hopefully this will keep the island from being loved to death.
Golden Bay
Links:
Stewart Island - about the island, activities, facilities
Stewart Island Experience - ferry service, cruises
Stewart Island Flights - to the island, and remote parts of it
Note - Regular flights cost more than the ferry, but the extra cost of getting to Bluff to catch the ferry, as opposed to Invercargill airport, offsets some of the difference. If time permits, using standby fares can make flying cheaper. Flying one way and catching the ferry the other way is another option.
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | 2 Comments »