New Zealand (south)
« Previous EntriesComfort On A Budget In Christchurch
Wednesday, February 24th, 2010A while back I wrote about comfortable budget accommodation in New Zealand, citing the BBH hostel chain as one option for those wanting basic comfort and privacy without a hotel price tag. Here I share one of my three favourites - Dorset House in Christchurch.
Although classed as a backpacker hostel, the owners take pride in it being small and homely, which it is. If you imagine a big two-storey house with lots of bedrooms, a cosy lounge room and a log fire, then you’ve got the picture. Its location on the quieter fringes of the central city area also set it apart from other hostels which tend to position themselves nearer to the city centre but in less charming settings.
The clincher for me was the way solo travellers are catered for. That is, solo travellers who don’t want to share a dormitory with strangers, something which can become less appealling with age. Dorset House (and other BBH hostels) have rooms specifically for singles. Naturally they cost more than a dorm bed, but are less than the twin or double rooms which the hostel also has. Treating people on their own with as much respect as people who are accompanied is something that more expensive places could get better at!
The real beds (not bunks) and comfort of the rooms make it easy to forget you’re in a hostel - until you leave your room and use the shared facilities. Communal lounges are one of the strengths of hostels, and having a very well equipped shared kitchen at one’s disposal can be a fantastic asset. Not just for saving money by self-catering … I used the kitchen at Dorset to prepare daily rations for a camping trip, something which would have been much harder in a motel or hotel.
If you don’t want to do your own food, there are plenty of eating places in the vicinity. Nearby Victoria Rd, a main road heading north-west out of the city, hosts a variety of eating places and cafes. Procope Cafe, just around the corner from the hostel, does delightful breakfasts and coffee. I found this cafe after running out of breakfast cereal near the end of my trip, and wished I’d run out of cereal sooner.
Dorset House is about ten or fifteen or twenty minutes walk from the city centre - depending on your route and how fast you walk. While it may have an “away from the hustle and bustle” feel to it, the hostel is still within walking distance of most of the central city if you don’t mind using your legs.
Another selling point is the proximity to the Avon River, just 200 metres to the west. A relaxing stroll along this gentle river, among manicured park land, provides access to the western end of central Christchurch - not a bad way of getting around.
I stayed at Dorset House at the beginning and end of my last NZ trip, and also during the middle when I switched from bus mode to car mode. It was a beautifully comfortable home base, made particularly welcoming by the friendliness and helpfulness of its hosts and staff. Next time I go to Christchurch, I know where I’ll want to stay!
More information:
Dorset House website (very comprehensive)
Dorset House page on BBH hostels website
Topics: Accommodation, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Wanaka River Jetboat Journeys
Saturday, November 28th, 2009I’ve written before about experiencing the beauty of New Zealand’s Matukituki valley by car (here). Another great way to enjoy this spectacular valley near Wanaka is a jet boat trip with Wanaka River Journeys.
This company is a small and personal husband and wife operation which takes small groups up the Matukituki River and back, with a walk or refreshment break at the furthest point. Brent, the host on my trip, drives the boat expertly at high speed in impossibly shallow water, and is a wealth of information about the area. Not just tour guide trivia either - he is a maori whose ancestors have lived in the area for centuries, so he conveys real passion for the area as well as his extensive local experiences.
The trip provides the exhilaration you’d expect from a jet boat ride in New Zealand, but also allows time to take in the tranquillity and wilderness values of an undeveloped valley that is well worth visiting.
Since I did my trip with them, Wanaka River Journeys has expanded to include an optional guided forest walk on their regular journeys, plus jetboat trips which incorporate a helicopter flight to the Aspiring Glacier or a hike to the Rob Roy Glacier (as if I needed any more temptation to return to Wanaka). Jet boat trips in New Zealand aren’t cheap, but when comparing “bang per buck” I think the trip up the Matukituki River still compares very well with the Queenstown alternatives.
If the thrill of the jet boat ride itself is all you’re after, then the Shotover Jet at Queenstown can be hard to beat for heart-stopping speed in a narrow gorge (although the one at Hanmer Springs comes close). But if you want your boat ride to include fantastic scenery, a wilderness experience, history and culture plus great people, then I can recommend Wanaka River Journeys.
Links:
Wanaka River Journeys
Topics: Activities, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Mt John Observatory At Lake Tekapo
Friday, October 30th, 2009An observatory may not be on everyone’s travel itinerary, but if you pass through Lake Tekapo in New Zealand’s south island then a visit to the Mt John Observatory can be worth doing. You don’t need to be an astronomy buff to become lost in wonder at what you may see.
Mt John is a large hill overlooking Lake Tekapo, just a short drive from the town. What makes it such a great spot for an observatory are the incredibly clear skies it enjoys from its position in the Mackenzie basin - in the rain shadow of the alps, with one of the country’s driest climates. The extra altitude of Mt John, about 1000m, means even less atmosphere between the telescopes and the stars.
The observatory is run by the University of Canterbury, and offers both night and daytime tours. These begin from the Earth and Sky Observatory Tours shop in the middle of town (own transport not needed). I did both tours, starting with the most popular one at night. After being transported up the hill to the observatory buildings, some of the astronomers who work there showed us around, explained their work, and pointed out a variety of features in the sky while we stood outside. It was amazing how much could be seen with the naked eye in such clear conditions, especially with someone knowledgable to show where to look and what to look for.
Inside the observatory domes, the telescopes were aimed at a selection of interesting objects which everyone took turns to look at. More time was spent waiting for a turn than actually looking through telescopes, which is unavoidable in a group situation. However the staff made sure everyone had their fair share, and their commentary, and answers to numerous curly questions, kept us interested while waiting.
The next day, I was the sole person on an afternoon tour. Being daylight, looking through telescopes wasn’t on the menu. Instead, the focus was on other observatory buildings and the extent of astronomical work that goes on at Mt John. Of note was their MOA (Microlensing Observations in Astrophysics) project, in which a sophisticated telescope uses gravitational microlensing (I won’t try to explain it) to detect planets around distant stars. Many such planets have been found using this cutting edge science.
A few things left impressions on me. One was the incredible clarity of the night sky - I’ve seen many clear skies in inland Australia, but the brightness of the stars on a clear frosty night at Mt John rivalled the best of them. Another was the passion and enthusiasm of the astronomers I met - refreshing to experience in a world where mediocrity and disinterest is all too common. I was also left with an invigorated sense of wonder at both the scale of the universe, and the genius of the people and technology involved in studying it.
Nearly everyone who visits New Zealand passes through Lake Tekapo (it’s on the route to Mount Cook and Queenstown), but most only stop for photos and to use the toilets. For anyone able to linger, a visit to the Mt John observatory can add a unique dimension to a kiwi holiday, and many reasons to say “wow!”
Winter view over Lake Tekapo. Even if not touring the observatory, the views and the cafe can be worth a visit.
Links:
About the Mt John Observatory (by Tekapo Tourism)
Earth and Sky Observatory Tours
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Easy Kiwi Walking On The Rakiura Track
Sunday, September 20th, 2009Imagine deserted beaches, quiet inlets and bays, lush primordial forests, roaring creeks, and gentle hills. If being immersed in this environment for a not-too-hard three day hike sounds appealing, then you might like the Rakiura Track on New Zealand’s Stewart Island. I certainly did.
I visited during the winter off-season, as part of a visit to the charming Stewart Island, which is off the bottom of the south island near Invercargill. What attracted me to the Rakiura Track was its “easy” grading and the length of 36km, which can be done comfortably in three days. As a person of questionable fitness I thought this would be a much kinder introduction to hiking in New Zealand than the more demanding tracks on the mainland.
The Rakiura Track is a circular route, beginning and ending at the island’s only settlement at Halfmoon Bay, so no transport is needed. My hike began as soon as I had registered at the DOC office and paid the hut fees. The first and last sections follow sealed roads, but they are extremely quiet - I don’t remember seeing any traffic on my walk.
I decided to walk anticlockwise, which meant the first day’s walk was north along the coast on mostly excellent surfaces. There was a little beach walking, some panoramic coastal views, and plenty of deliciously lush rimu and kamahi forest to relax in. Also a swing bridge which threatened my fear of heights, even though I new it was well built and perfectly safe.
The second day was mostly forested hills, and provided the bulk of the track’s uphill walking. By New Zealand standards the hills are small, but for the unfit they are still tiring enough! The extensive view from the track’s high point, over Paterson Inlet and the wilderness beyond, compensated for the perspiration.
Day three provided more exquisite forest, skirting deserted silent inlets and gentle hills before re-entering town from the west.
Both nights of the walk were spent in very well equipped huts - sheer luxury if you’re used to walking in Australia where huts are comparatively rare. I never quite managed to get the stoves lit, but thanks to the wonders of thermal underwear the huts felt cosy enough without heating.
Overall it was an excellent experience, my only grumble (and it’s only a little one) being the striking difference in track quality between the east section and the rest. The deterioration from paved gravel, stones and boardwalk on day one to bare mud and tree roots on day two gave the impression the track was still under construction. It seemed odd that a track rated top standard could vary so much, but this was overshadowed by the pure charm of the environment.
As for the track’s official grading as “easy” … it may be easy compared to other NZ tracks, but the effort required is not to be sneezed at when you’re carrying a backpack. If you’re fit and hike regularly it may well seem easy. On the other hand, sedentary workers who hike once per year can find it tiring … but not too much to enjoy it.
I walked this three day hike in winter and had it almost to myself; the quietness and solitude enhanced my enjoyment of what is mostly wilderness with little evidence of human interferance. I also enjoyed mostly dry weather which contradicted the island’s reputation for being wet all the time - this reputation is undeserved, though it’s still wise to take wet weather gear. It may not rain all the time, but it still rains frequently.
The Rakiura Track shows what much of New Zealand was like before 90% of its forests were destroyed. If you want to do a multi-day hike in New Zealand, but prefer something less demanding than the better known tracks, and away from the crowds, then the Rakiura Track is worth considering.
Links:
Rakiura Track information (NZ Dept of Conservation)
Topics: New Zealand (south), Walks | Add Your Comment »
The Coldest Town In New Zealand
Saturday, June 20th, 2009Curiosity is a great motivator, and when applied to travel it can provide the reason for some interesting journeys. My desire to find out why it gets so cold in Ophir took me on one such journey to a starkly beautiful and somewhat chilly place.
Ophir, in the south of New Zealand, is a tiny town which holds the record for the country’s lowest temperature. On July 3rd, 1995, a low of -21.6°C broke the previous record, which was also held by Ophir. I was travelling in New Zealand during that memorable winter, and my curiosity was aroused - of all the cold places in New Zealand, why did Ophir break the records? I had to find out.
At first it seemed straightforward. Ophir’s inland location in Central Otago gives it a drier climate with clearer skies than elsewhere in New Zealand. Add a valley location and sparse vegetation to a modest bit of altitude (298m) and you have the ingredients for extreme cooling on calm winter nights. But while great cold could be accounted for, it didn’t explain why Ophir gets colder than other towns in the area which share a similar climate.
I had a perfect excuse to indulge in a style of travel that could be described as “investigative exploring”. On my most recent return to New Zealand, I headed to Ophir, and on a morning when a brass monkey might have lost a ball or two, I scraped the ice off the car and set out to satisfy my curiosity.
A good look at the topography revealed what I think sets Ophir apart - not only is it situated in the mother of all frost hollows, but a little down from the town stands a group of hills which cross the valley and must surely obstruct descending cold air. The river has cut a channel through, but for cold air the hills could act as a crude dam, with Ophir at the very bottom of a what becomes a huge cold air reservoir.
I also learned that morning fog or low cloud in the area sometimes blocks the sun and minimises warming after a frosty night. If repeated over several mornings, the cooling is intensified.
Having satisfied my curiosity about Ophir’s microclimate, I drove around and enjoyed the beauty of sunrise on a crisp frosty morning. I then satisfied my appetite with a magnificent cooked breakfast at the pub in nearby Omakau, and reflected a little. Investigating climatic extremes is obviously not to everyone’s taste, but I’d found that the quest to satisfy my personal curiosity had led to a journey more rewarding than merely going where the guidebooks suggest.
Looking towards Dunstan Mountains from Raggedy Range, with Ophir down on the valley floor
Topics: New Zealand (south), Towns | Add Your Comment »
The Queenstown to Glenorchy Road, NZ
Monday, May 11th, 2009
Could this be the most scenic drive in New Zealand? In a country abounding in quiet roads and beautiful scenery, such a claim is ambitious. Yet many consider the drive along the edge of Lake Wakatipu between Queenstown and Glenorchy to be the best in the country.
Whether it’s the best is very subjective, but having driven this and many other great kiwi roads, I’d have to say it’s right up there with the most magnificent of them. Even if you haven’t been there, you may have seen glimpses of the road to Glenorchy on television - many car advertisements have been filmed there. The stunning setting amidst lake and snowcapped mountains could make any rust-bucket look good.
The drive starts from New Zealand’s busiest tourist destination, but the majority of Queenstown’s visitors don’t venture very far up the lake, at least by road. Most of those who do are hikers taking a bus to the Routeburn, Greenstone, Caples and Rees-Dart tracks, all of which have their trailheads beyond Glenorchy.
Lake Wakatipu is an 84km long glacial lake (New Zealand’s longest) consisting of three straight sections arranged in a zig-zag. The journey from Queenstown to Glenorchy traverses two of them, and for the most part clings to the sides of the mountains which plunge steeply into the deep waters.
The scenery is magnificent right from the start, but thanks to the explosive growth of Queenstown in recent years, it takes a little while to leave behind the narrow finger of development creeping out of town along the lake edge. Once you round the corner and head up the Glenorchy stretch of the lake, it feels like another world - a remote and nearly pristine one.
Despite the relative straitness of the lake edge, the road along it has plenty of bends, and plenty of ups and downs too. It is the combination of enjoyable driving experience and grand scenery that makes this road memorable for me. The mountain and lake views constantly change, as new peaks come into view and perspectives alter.
A place to pull over mid-journey, just past the corner where the road turns towards Glenorchy, provides a great spot to stop and take photos. The whole drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy is an easy 45km on a sealed road, so unless you’re taking a bus there shouldn’t be any excuse not to stop and take some time to soak up the scenery.
This drive is gorgeous at any time of year, but in my opinion the cooler months, when snow decorates the hills, are best. Hikers’ buses don’t usually run in winter, so you’ll need your own wheels to see it then. If the weather isn’t good, don’t let that put you off - dramatic cloud effects can add atmosphere, and the weather can change quickly. But if you strike a clear sunny day, the blue of the sky and lake, together with the browns and greens of the mountainsides and the white snow, make for some superlative scenes that no postcard can do justice to.
Topics: New Zealand (south), Scenic Roads | 1 Comment »
Relaxed And Natural Stewart Island
Saturday, April 18th, 2009
Visiting some places can leave a lasting impression: one you can still feel years later without needing holiday photos to trigger memories. For me, one such place is Stewart Island, off the south end of New Zealand’s south island.
Most foreign visitors don’t make it that far south. To get to Stewart Island requires travelling to Invercargill, almost at the southernmost point of the mainland. From there it is either a one hour ferry ride from nearby Bluff, or a twenty minute flight. I’d heard the ferry crossing is notoriously rough, so I opted for the fllght, only to find the ride in the six passenger plane to also be very turbulent. However, it was worth whatever discomfort the G-forces inflicted.
As soon as the plane landed, it became apparent how unlike other tourist destinations Stewart Island is. The airport is a short strip on a hilltop, with just a couple of wind socks the only other structures. The pilot, who also issued the tickets at Invercargill, proceeded to unload luggage into the small van that drove right up to the plane. It was by far the most laid-back airport arrival I’ve experienced. A short ride in the mini-van brought us to Halfmoon Bay - comprised of just 390 people, it is the only settlement on the 60km long island, of which 85% is national park.
Halfmoon Bay, where the ferry arrives
Apart from the hotel/pub, a cafe and one shop, there is little to occupy those needing night-life and shopping. But that’s not what people come to Stewart Island for. The real drawcards are the simpler, slower lifestyle, and an unspoilt natural environment which includes lush rainforest, pristine beaches and waterways, plus an abundance of unique wildlife.
Two of my reasons for visiting Stewart Island were to hike the Rakiura Track, and view the birdlife on Ulva Island; I’ll write separately about these another time. Other people’s visits include hiking and wildlife viewing in other places, plus boating, kayaking, diving, fishing and hunting. While there are organised tours, cruises and guided walks, you can do many of these things on your own.
My third reason for visiting - one shared by most - was to simply relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Where better to do this than a place where nothing feels urgent, where ATMs and fast food don’t exist yet, where heavy traffic is impossible, and where the enchanted forest and native wildlife is much as it was before people came along.
Oban town centre
The Stewart Island website says it well: “our Island offers a special experience - a glimpse into a simpler, slower lifestyle, in rhythm with the sea and the tides, attuned to the natural world of bush and beach.” I can attest that there is no exaggeration in that statement, my delightful stay having done wonders for my mental health.
I left Stewart Island feeling refreshed, and glad that such places still exist. I was also in a dilemma - wanting to share this great treasure with other travellers, but at the same time wanting it to remain overlooked and therefore unspoiled by crowds. Fortunately the limited plane and ferry capacity, and the limited accommodation, impose strict on the numbers who can go there at any one time. Hopefully this will keep the island from being loved to death.
Golden Bay
Links:
Stewart Island - about the island, activities, facilities
Stewart Island Experience - ferry service, cruises
Stewart Island Flights - to the island, and remote parts of it
Note - Regular flights cost more than the ferry, but the extra cost of getting to Bluff to catch the ferry, as opposed to Invercargill airport, offsets some of the difference. If time permits, using standby fares can make flying cheaper. Flying one way and catching the ferry the other way is another option.
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | 2 Comments »
Te Anau Wildlife Centre, NZ
Friday, April 10th, 2009
A friendly kaka
New Zealand has some great native birds you won’t find anywhere else, however many of them are rare or endangered, and hard to find out in the wild. You could pay to visit some sort of zoo or wildlife park, but a cost-free alternative is to visit the Te Anau Wildlife Centre.
This centre is run by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation, and houses native birds which are rare, endangered, injured or needing special care. It takes the form of aviaries and enclosures scattered among parklands on the edge of Lake Te Anau, about a kilometre from the town of Te Anau in the south island. Beneficiaries of this scenic sanctuary include the kereru (native pigeon), pukeko (blue flamingo), tui, kea, kakariki, kaka, takahe, and weka.
Although it can be reached by car, a more pleasant way to get there (weather permitting) is by following the path along the edge of the lake - about 15 minutes walk from the town’s visitor centre is all it takes. That’s how I accidentally found it … I went for a stroll to explore the outstanding lake views and see where the path went, and suddenly found myself among an amazing assortment of birds. You can get quite close to some of them (if they cooperate), and information panels tell you something about what you’re looking at.
Views on the walk to the centre
Most people visit Te Anau in order to see Milford Sound or Doubtful Sound, walk the Milford Track, or partake of the multitude of other well promoted excursions in the area. The Te Anau Wildlife Centre gets little publicity in comparison, but also deserves a place on any visitor’s itinerary. Seeing so many beautiful birds in one charming location, with no entry fee, is a blessing all too many visitors miss out on.
Link:
NZ Dept of Conservation - Te Anau Wildlife Centre
(more information, including map)
Topics: Alternatives, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »