New Zealand (south)
« Previous EntriesStaying At The Beach In Golden Bay
Thursday, June 24th, 2010Last time I visited New Zealand, I checked out the Golden Bay region in the south island’s north. As is my habit, I sought somewhere to stay that was out of town and scenic, yet still convenient … and I found it at Pohara Beach.
Although I want this website to focus on places, rather than places to stay, I can’t help mentioning some of the accommodation I’ve stayed in which stand out for some reason. One of these is the Pohara Beach holiday park. It sits in a rural setting 10 km from Golden Bay’s main town of Takaka, but, as its name suggests, it also sits right alongside a beach. A rather nice one too.
Staying at a beach might not be the first thing you associate with New Zealand’s south island, especially in winter. Golden Bay, however, is at the mildest part of the south island, and its waters are sheltered. After weeks of cold and frost further south, and the dampness of the west coast, strolling on Pohara’s golden brown sand felt balmy in comparison. It demonstrated once again what a land of contrasts New Zealand is. Yes, that’s a cliche, but it’s true - you can have snowcapped mountains in the morning, sand and surf in the afternoon.
I enjoyed the soothing sound of waves rolling onto the beach, something able to be enjoyed from inside the accommodation since it is so close to the sea. Because I indulged myself by staying in a small cabin, I even had a view of the sea out my window. Not all accommodation options have the view, but the ocean-side ambience is still there.
The Pohara Beach holiday park is part of the Top Ten chain, and shares the high standard of facilities common to parks in this chain. The amenities were as good and clean as any I’ve found in caravan parks. Prices are also high by caravan park standards, but then you usually get what you pay for.
My stay in a cabin didn’t quite fit “budget” category, even with winter rates, but for a short stay I felt it was worth it for the location. Exploring the Golden Bay area required a local base somewhere, and finding one so comfortable and right on a pleasant beach made it special.
More information:
Pohara Beach holiday park website
Topics: Accommodation, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Pupu Springs
Wednesday, June 16th, 2010
Places with interesting names usually draw my attention, so when I came across a sign for Pupu Springs I just had to have a look. Despite the unsanitory sounding name, it turned out to be a place of purity and beauty.
The real name is Te Waikoropupu Springs, so it’s not surprising it gets abbreviated to Pupu. You’ll find it in the northwest corner of New Zealand’s south island, in a region referred to as Golden Bay. The springs (in the Te Waikoropupu Springs Scenic Reserve) are a short drive off the main road, not far to the west of the area’s main town of Takaka. If you’re exploring the area, you don’t need to detour much.
What you’ll find is a pleasant nature reserve containing native trees, bubbling creeks, and what some claim is the purest spring water in the world. I’m not sure how true that is - I’ve seen grand claims for water purity elsewhere - but when you look at it, the Pupu water is indeed remarkably crystal clear. I thought I’d seen clean creek water before, but this was in a higher class.
The great thing about the reserve at Pupu Springs - well, I liked it - is the way you can appreciate it by wandering around the gentle walk trails. The walk alone would have been good enough, but the incredibly pure spring water gurgling among the pure and natural-looking landscape made it delightful. Definitely a short sightseeing stop I didn’t regret.
More information:
Te Waikoropupu Springs (NZ Dept of Conservation)
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
A Great Kiwi Country Pub In Omakau
Sunday, June 6th, 2010I’ve written before about the Maniototo region of New Zealand - sparsely settled and sparsely visited high plains inland from Dunedin. When exploring this unique part of New Zealand’s south it’s good to stay somewhere local, and so I thought I’d mention one of the places I stayed, which I liked.
Omakau is not a well known town. However anyone who travels between Queenstown and Dunedin passes through Alexandra … and Omakau is just 26km away. It’s up the less frequented “high road” which runs from Alexandra via the Maniototo region towards the coast.
The Commercial Hotel in Omakau is a fairly typical rural pub which takes central place on the main road at the town centre. Well, it’s nicer and more charming than some pubs, but it remains unpretentious and not too fancy. It’s popular with the locals of this small and quiet town … which is also unpretentious and not fancy. Apart from being on the Otago Central Rail Trail, Omakau has been little impacted by New Zealand’s tourism boom.
A comfortable private room at a reasonable price was what drew me to the Omakau Commercial Hotel, and I wasn’t disappointed. My room was as clean and well appointed as I’d hoped, the bed was comfortable, and the other rooms I peeked into also looked inviting.
On entering the bar - where the accommodation booking is done - I felt conspicuous. It reminded me of western movie scenes where the stranger enters the saloon and all the regulars turn around and go quiet. One of the realities of towns with few tourists is that visitors tend to stand out. However, unlike the westerns, there was no gunfight; instead the local drinkers responded with smiles, friendly nods, and an invitation to join in whatever game they had going on at the time.
Later, after settling in, a five minute drive took me to the crest of the nearby Raggedy Range for an excellent sunset viewing. It may not be a lofty range, but the view is expansive, and reveals just how mountainous and unpopulated this part of New Zealand is.
Back in town, eating was the next priority. Some fellow diners told me that the hotel has a reputation for good food, and while it’s hard to judge from one overnight stay, the dinner and hearty cooked breakfast I enjoyed were superb. I had my own budget food supply in the car, but felt no guilt about leaving it there!
If I’m blessed enough to return to the Central Otago region of New Zealand, I hope to once again enjoy the rural hospitality of Omakau and its pub. Also to see how the refurbishments are going … and sample some more of their menu.
More information:
Omakau Commercial Hotel website
Topics: Accommodation, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Lake Ohau
Wednesday, March 24th, 2010New Zealand’s south island has some beautiful large lakes. Vistas of pristine waters and snowclad mountain backdrops are associated with names like Tekapo, Pukaki and Wakatipu. Just as beautiful but less well known is Lake Ohau - almost undeveloped, and just far enough from the main roads to miss being seen by passing traffic.
If you’re heading from Christchurch along the inland route to Queenstown, you’ll pass the edge of Lake Tekapo first, followed a little later by Lake Pukaki. Pukaki is famous for its views towards Mt Cook, and the road to Mount Cook village runs along its edge.
Lake Ohau (pronounced oh-how) is the next major lake to the south, however the main road drifts eastwards and misses it completely. This allows most visitors to arrive in the tiny town of Omarama with no awareness of the magnificent lake just beyond their vision to the west.
So if you do take the side road off the main road, 17km north of Omarama, and drive for about 20 minutes west to Lake Ohau, what do you find? Not very much … and that’s part of the attraction for many of us.
The main development is the Lake Ohau ski area and the accompanying lodge at the foot of the access road. This modest lodge, and the ski area with just one chairlift, don’t make much of an impact on the environment. The relative lack of towns and accommodation in the region limit the skier traffic, and the ski season is only for a few months of the year anyway.
Upon reaching the shore of Lake Ohau you’ll find nothing but a stoney lake shore - not even a car park. Stopping to admire and photograph the extensive view up the length of the lake means pulling over to the roadside and walking a short distance across lightly vegetated ground. It’s not hard, but requires a deliberate choice. A far cry from the paved viewpoint with coach parking and signage that draws visitors at Lake Pukaki!
The road continues along the western edge of Lake Ohau. Once past the lodge and ski area turnoff, the road narrows and turns to good gravel. Further down the lake is a small bush reserve, which is a pleasant place to stop and admire the lake shore amidst the trees. It’s a great picnic spot too, assuming you’ve brought everything you need.
I did just that, soaking up the tranquility of a pristine glacial lake with the feeling that I was seeing it pretty much as the first human to go there would have seen it. Well, not quite - there’s less forest than there once was, and some sheep paddocks south of the lake, although these aren’t visible from the lake shore. But compared with most big lakes Ohau has an untouched feel to it.
So why don’t more people go to Lake Ohau? The bulk of tourists passing through are on the long journey between Christchurch and Wanaka or Queenstown. Though not far from the main road, a side trip to Lake Ohau and back is a significant detour in what is already a long drive. Especially for those who have just passed some big lakes and don’t want to go out of their way to see another one.
If you’re travelling independantly with the luxury of time to explore, you’ll share Lake Ohau with just a scattering of fishermen, hlkers or skiers - or maybe nobody else at all.
More information:
Ohau Snow Fields and Lake Ohau Lodge
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Comfort On A Budget In Christchurch
Wednesday, February 24th, 2010A while back I wrote about comfortable budget accommodation in New Zealand, citing the BBH hostel chain as one option for those wanting basic comfort and privacy without a hotel price tag. Here I share one of my three favourites - Dorset House in Christchurch.
Although classed as a backpacker hostel, the owners take pride in it being small and homely, which it is. If you imagine a big two-storey house with lots of bedrooms, a cosy lounge room and a log fire, then you’ve got the picture. Its location on the quieter fringes of the central city area also set it apart from other hostels which tend to position themselves nearer to the city centre but in less charming settings.
The clincher for me was the way solo travellers are catered for. That is, solo travellers who don’t want to share a dormitory with strangers, something which can become less appealling with age. Dorset House (and other BBH hostels) have rooms specifically for singles. Naturally they cost more than a dorm bed, but are less than the twin or double rooms which the hostel also has. Treating people on their own with as much respect as people who are accompanied is something that more expensive places could get better at!
The real beds (not bunks) and comfort of the rooms make it easy to forget you’re in a hostel - until you leave your room and use the shared facilities. Communal lounges are one of the strengths of hostels, and having a very well equipped shared kitchen at one’s disposal can be a fantastic asset. Not just for saving money by self-catering … I used the kitchen at Dorset to prepare daily rations for a camping trip, something which would have been much harder in a motel or hotel.
If you don’t want to do your own food, there are plenty of eating places in the vicinity. Nearby Victoria Rd, a main road heading north-west out of the city, hosts a variety of eating places and cafes. Procope Cafe, just around the corner from the hostel, does delightful breakfasts and coffee. I found this cafe after running out of breakfast cereal near the end of my trip, and wished I’d run out of cereal sooner.
Dorset House is about ten or fifteen or twenty minutes walk from the city centre - depending on your route and how fast you walk. While it may have an “away from the hustle and bustle” feel to it, the hostel is still within walking distance of most of the central city if you don’t mind using your legs.
Another selling point is the proximity to the Avon River, just 200 metres to the west. A relaxing stroll along this gentle river, among manicured park land, provides access to the western end of central Christchurch - not a bad way of getting around.
I stayed at Dorset House at the beginning and end of my last NZ trip, and also during the middle when I switched from bus mode to car mode. It was a beautifully comfortable home base, made particularly welcoming by the friendliness and helpfulness of its hosts and staff. Next time I go to Christchurch, I know where I’ll want to stay!
More information:
Dorset House website (very comprehensive)
Dorset House page on BBH hostels website
Topics: Accommodation, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Wanaka River Jetboat Journeys
Saturday, November 28th, 2009I’ve written before about experiencing the beauty of New Zealand’s Matukituki valley by car (here). Another great way to enjoy this spectacular valley near Wanaka is a jet boat trip with Wanaka River Journeys.
This company is a small and personal husband and wife operation which takes small groups up the Matukituki River and back, with a walk or refreshment break at the furthest point. Brent, the host on my trip, drives the boat expertly at high speed in impossibly shallow water, and is a wealth of information about the area. Not just tour guide trivia either - he is a maori whose ancestors have lived in the area for centuries, so he conveys real passion for the area as well as his extensive local experiences.
The trip provides the exhilaration you’d expect from a jet boat ride in New Zealand, but also allows time to take in the tranquillity and wilderness values of an undeveloped valley that is well worth visiting.
Since I did my trip with them, Wanaka River Journeys has expanded to include an optional guided forest walk on their regular journeys, plus jetboat trips which incorporate a helicopter flight to the Aspiring Glacier or a hike to the Rob Roy Glacier (as if I needed any more temptation to return to Wanaka). Jet boat trips in New Zealand aren’t cheap, but when comparing “bang per buck” I think the trip up the Matukituki River still compares very well with the Queenstown alternatives.
If the thrill of the jet boat ride itself is all you’re after, then the Shotover Jet at Queenstown can be hard to beat for heart-stopping speed in a narrow gorge (although the one at Hanmer Springs comes close). But if you want your boat ride to include fantastic scenery, a wilderness experience, history and culture plus great people, then I can recommend Wanaka River Journeys.
Links:
Wanaka River Journeys
Topics: Activities, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Mt John Observatory At Lake Tekapo
Friday, October 30th, 2009An observatory may not be on everyone’s travel itinerary, but if you pass through Lake Tekapo in New Zealand’s south island then a visit to the Mt John Observatory can be worth doing. You don’t need to be an astronomy buff to become lost in wonder at what you may see.
Mt John is a large hill overlooking Lake Tekapo, just a short drive from the town. What makes it such a great spot for an observatory are the incredibly clear skies it enjoys from its position in the Mackenzie basin - in the rain shadow of the alps, with one of the country’s driest climates. The extra altitude of Mt John, about 1000m, means even less atmosphere between the telescopes and the stars.
The observatory is run by the University of Canterbury, and offers both night and daytime tours. These begin from the Earth and Sky Observatory Tours shop in the middle of town (own transport not needed). I did both tours, starting with the most popular one at night. After being transported up the hill to the observatory buildings, some of the astronomers who work there showed us around, explained their work, and pointed out a variety of features in the sky while we stood outside. It was amazing how much could be seen with the naked eye in such clear conditions, especially with someone knowledgable to show where to look and what to look for.
Inside the observatory domes, the telescopes were aimed at a selection of interesting objects which everyone took turns to look at. More time was spent waiting for a turn than actually looking through telescopes, which is unavoidable in a group situation. However the staff made sure everyone had their fair share, and their commentary, and answers to numerous curly questions, kept us interested while waiting.
The next day, I was the sole person on an afternoon tour. Being daylight, looking through telescopes wasn’t on the menu. Instead, the focus was on other observatory buildings and the extent of astronomical work that goes on at Mt John. Of note was their MOA (Microlensing Observations in Astrophysics) project, in which a sophisticated telescope uses gravitational microlensing (I won’t try to explain it) to detect planets around distant stars. Many such planets have been found using this cutting edge science.
A few things left impressions on me. One was the incredible clarity of the night sky - I’ve seen many clear skies in inland Australia, but the brightness of the stars on a clear frosty night at Mt John rivalled the best of them. Another was the passion and enthusiasm of the astronomers I met - refreshing to experience in a world where mediocrity and disinterest is all too common. I was also left with an invigorated sense of wonder at both the scale of the universe, and the genius of the people and technology involved in studying it.
Nearly everyone who visits New Zealand passes through Lake Tekapo (it’s on the route to Mount Cook and Queenstown), but most only stop for photos and to use the toilets. For anyone able to linger, a visit to the Mt John observatory can add a unique dimension to a kiwi holiday, and many reasons to say “wow!”
Winter view over Lake Tekapo. Even if not touring the observatory, the views and the cafe can be worth a visit.
Links:
About the Mt John Observatory (by Tekapo Tourism)
Earth and Sky Observatory Tours
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Easy Kiwi Walking On The Rakiura Track
Sunday, September 20th, 2009Imagine deserted beaches, quiet inlets and bays, lush primordial forests, roaring creeks, and gentle hills. If being immersed in this environment for a not-too-hard three day hike sounds appealing, then you might like the Rakiura Track on New Zealand’s Stewart Island. I certainly did.
I visited during the winter off-season, as part of a visit to the charming Stewart Island, which is off the bottom of the south island near Invercargill. What attracted me to the Rakiura Track was its “easy” grading and the length of 36km, which can be done comfortably in three days. As a person of questionable fitness I thought this would be a much kinder introduction to hiking in New Zealand than the more demanding tracks on the mainland.
The Rakiura Track is a circular route, beginning and ending at the island’s only settlement at Halfmoon Bay, so no transport is needed. My hike began as soon as I had registered at the DOC office and paid the hut fees. The first and last sections follow sealed roads, but they are extremely quiet - I don’t remember seeing any traffic on my walk.
I decided to walk anticlockwise, which meant the first day’s walk was north along the coast on mostly excellent surfaces. There was a little beach walking, some panoramic coastal views, and plenty of deliciously lush rimu and kamahi forest to relax in. Also a swing bridge which threatened my fear of heights, even though I new it was well built and perfectly safe.
The second day was mostly forested hills, and provided the bulk of the track’s uphill walking. By New Zealand standards the hills are small, but for the unfit they are still tiring enough! The extensive view from the track’s high point, over Paterson Inlet and the wilderness beyond, compensated for the perspiration.
Day three provided more exquisite forest, skirting deserted silent inlets and gentle hills before re-entering town from the west.
Both nights of the walk were spent in very well equipped huts - sheer luxury if you’re used to walking in Australia where huts are comparatively rare. I never quite managed to get the stoves lit, but thanks to the wonders of thermal underwear the huts felt cosy enough without heating.
Overall it was an excellent experience, my only grumble (and it’s only a little one) being the striking difference in track quality between the east section and the rest. The deterioration from paved gravel, stones and boardwalk on day one to bare mud and tree roots on day two gave the impression the track was still under construction. It seemed odd that a track rated top standard could vary so much, but this was overshadowed by the pure charm of the environment.
As for the track’s official grading as “easy” … it may be easy compared to other NZ tracks, but the effort required is not to be sneezed at when you’re carrying a backpack. If you’re fit and hike regularly it may well seem easy. On the other hand, sedentary workers who hike once per year can find it tiring … but not too much to enjoy it.
I walked this three day hike in winter and had it almost to myself; the quietness and solitude enhanced my enjoyment of what is mostly wilderness with little evidence of human interferance. I also enjoyed mostly dry weather which contradicted the island’s reputation for being wet all the time - this reputation is undeserved, though it’s still wise to take wet weather gear. It may not rain all the time, but it still rains frequently.
The Rakiura Track shows what much of New Zealand was like before 90% of its forests were destroyed. If you want to do a multi-day hike in New Zealand, but prefer something less demanding than the better known tracks, and away from the crowds, then the Rakiura Track is worth considering.
Links:
Rakiura Track information (NZ Dept of Conservation)
Topics: New Zealand (south), Walks | Add Your Comment »