New Zealand (south)
« Previous Entries Next Entries »The Coldest Town In New Zealand
Saturday, June 20th, 2009Curiosity is a great motivator, and when applied to travel it can provide the reason for some interesting journeys. My desire to find out why it gets so cold in Ophir took me on one such journey to a starkly beautiful and somewhat chilly place.
Ophir, in the south of New Zealand, is a tiny town which holds the record for the country’s lowest temperature. On July 3rd, 1995, a low of -21.6°C broke the previous record, which was also held by Ophir. I was travelling in New Zealand during that memorable winter, and my curiosity was aroused - of all the cold places in New Zealand, why did Ophir break the records? I had to find out.
At first it seemed straightforward. Ophir’s inland location in Central Otago gives it a drier climate with clearer skies than elsewhere in New Zealand. Add a valley location and sparse vegetation to a modest bit of altitude (298m) and you have the ingredients for extreme cooling on calm winter nights. But while great cold could be accounted for, it didn’t explain why Ophir gets colder than other towns in the area which share a similar climate.
I had a perfect excuse to indulge in a style of travel that could be described as “investigative exploring”. On my most recent return to New Zealand, I headed to Ophir, and on a morning when a brass monkey might have lost a ball or two, I scraped the ice off the car and set out to satisfy my curiosity.
A good look at the topography revealed what I think sets Ophir apart - not only is it situated in the mother of all frost hollows, but a little down from the town stands a group of hills which cross the valley and must surely obstruct descending cold air. The river has cut a channel through, but for cold air the hills could act as a crude dam, with Ophir at the very bottom of a what becomes a huge cold air reservoir.
I also learned that morning fog or low cloud in the area sometimes blocks the sun and minimises warming after a frosty night. If repeated over several mornings, the cooling is intensified.
Having satisfied my curiosity about Ophir’s microclimate, I drove around and enjoyed the beauty of sunrise on a crisp frosty morning. I then satisfied my appetite with a magnificent cooked breakfast at the pub in nearby Omakau, and reflected a little. Investigating climatic extremes is obviously not to everyone’s taste, but I’d found that the quest to satisfy my personal curiosity had led to a journey more rewarding than merely going where the guidebooks suggest.
Looking towards Dunstan Mountains from Raggedy Range, with Ophir down on the valley floor
Topics: New Zealand (south), Towns | Add Your Comment »
The Queenstown to Glenorchy Road, NZ
Monday, May 11th, 2009
Could this be the most scenic drive in New Zealand? In a country abounding in quiet roads and beautiful scenery, such a claim is ambitious. Yet many consider the drive along the edge of Lake Wakatipu between Queenstown and Glenorchy to be the best in the country.
Whether it’s the best is very subjective, but having driven this and many other great kiwi roads, I’d have to say it’s right up there with the most magnificent of them. Even if you haven’t been there, you may have seen glimpses of the road to Glenorchy on television - many car advertisements have been filmed there. The stunning setting amidst lake and snowcapped mountains could make any rust-bucket look good.
The drive starts from New Zealand’s busiest tourist destination, but the majority of Queenstown’s visitors don’t venture very far up the lake, at least by road. Most of those who do are hikers taking a bus to the Routeburn, Greenstone, Caples and Rees-Dart tracks, all of which have their trailheads beyond Glenorchy.
Lake Wakatipu is an 84km long glacial lake (New Zealand’s longest) consisting of three straight sections arranged in a zig-zag. The journey from Queenstown to Glenorchy traverses two of them, and for the most part clings to the sides of the mountains which plunge steeply into the deep waters.
The scenery is magnificent right from the start, but thanks to the explosive growth of Queenstown in recent years, it takes a little while to leave behind the narrow finger of development creeping out of town along the lake edge. Once you round the corner and head up the Glenorchy stretch of the lake, it feels like another world - a remote and nearly pristine one.
Despite the relative straitness of the lake edge, the road along it has plenty of bends, and plenty of ups and downs too. It is the combination of enjoyable driving experience and grand scenery that makes this road memorable for me. The mountain and lake views constantly change, as new peaks come into view and perspectives alter.
A place to pull over mid-journey, just past the corner where the road turns towards Glenorchy, provides a great spot to stop and take photos. The whole drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy is an easy 45km on a sealed road, so unless you’re taking a bus there shouldn’t be any excuse not to stop and take some time to soak up the scenery.
This drive is gorgeous at any time of year, but in my opinion the cooler months, when snow decorates the hills, are best. Hikers’ buses don’t usually run in winter, so you’ll need your own wheels to see it then. If the weather isn’t good, don’t let that put you off - dramatic cloud effects can add atmosphere, and the weather can change quickly. But if you strike a clear sunny day, the blue of the sky and lake, together with the browns and greens of the mountainsides and the white snow, make for some superlative scenes that no postcard can do justice to.
Topics: New Zealand (south), Scenic Roads | 2 Comments »
Relaxed And Natural Stewart Island
Saturday, April 18th, 2009
Visiting some places can leave a lasting impression: one you can still feel years later without needing holiday photos to trigger memories. For me, one such place is Stewart Island, off the south end of New Zealand’s south island.
Most foreign visitors don’t make it that far south. To get to Stewart Island requires travelling to Invercargill, almost at the southernmost point of the mainland. From there it is either a one hour ferry ride from nearby Bluff, or a twenty minute flight. I’d heard the ferry crossing is notoriously rough, so I opted for the fllght, only to find the ride in the six passenger plane to also be very turbulent. However, it was worth whatever discomfort the G-forces inflicted.
As soon as the plane landed, it became apparent how unlike other tourist destinations Stewart Island is. The airport is a short strip on a hilltop, with just a couple of wind socks the only other structures. The pilot, who also issued the tickets at Invercargill, proceeded to unload luggage into the small van that drove right up to the plane. It was by far the most laid-back airport arrival I’ve experienced. A short ride in the mini-van brought us to Halfmoon Bay - comprised of just 390 people, it is the only settlement on the 60km long island, of which 85% is national park.
Halfmoon Bay, where the ferry arrives
Apart from the hotel/pub, a cafe and one shop, there is little to occupy those needing night-life and shopping. But that’s not what people come to Stewart Island for. The real drawcards are the simpler, slower lifestyle, and an unspoilt natural environment which includes lush rainforest, pristine beaches and waterways, plus an abundance of unique wildlife.
Two of my reasons for visiting Stewart Island were to hike the Rakiura Track, and view the birdlife on Ulva Island; I’ll write separately about these another time. Other people’s visits include hiking and wildlife viewing in other places, plus boating, kayaking, diving, fishing and hunting. While there are organised tours, cruises and guided walks, you can do many of these things on your own.
My third reason for visiting - one shared by most - was to simply relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Where better to do this than a place where nothing feels urgent, where ATMs and fast food don’t exist yet, where heavy traffic is impossible, and where the enchanted forest and native wildlife is much as it was before people came along.
Oban town centre
The Stewart Island website says it well: “our Island offers a special experience - a glimpse into a simpler, slower lifestyle, in rhythm with the sea and the tides, attuned to the natural world of bush and beach.” I can attest that there is no exaggeration in that statement, my delightful stay having done wonders for my mental health.
I left Stewart Island feeling refreshed, and glad that such places still exist. I was also in a dilemma - wanting to share this great treasure with other travellers, but at the same time wanting it to remain overlooked and therefore unspoiled by crowds. Fortunately the limited plane and ferry capacity, and the limited accommodation, impose strict on the numbers who can go there at any one time. Hopefully this will keep the island from being loved to death.
Golden Bay
Links:
Stewart Island - about the island, activities, facilities
Stewart Island Experience - ferry service, cruises
Stewart Island Flights - to the island, and remote parts of it
Note - Regular flights cost more than the ferry, but the extra cost of getting to Bluff to catch the ferry, as opposed to Invercargill airport, offsets some of the difference. If time permits, using standby fares can make flying cheaper. Flying one way and catching the ferry the other way is another option.
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | 2 Comments »
Te Anau Wildlife Centre, NZ
Friday, April 10th, 2009
A friendly kaka
New Zealand has some great native birds you won’t find anywhere else, however many of them are rare or endangered, and hard to find out in the wild. You could pay to visit some sort of zoo or wildlife park, but a cost-free alternative is to visit the Te Anau Wildlife Centre.
This centre is run by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation, and houses native birds which are rare, endangered, injured or needing special care. It takes the form of aviaries and enclosures scattered among parklands on the edge of Lake Te Anau, about a kilometre from the town of Te Anau in the south island. Beneficiaries of this scenic sanctuary include the kereru (native pigeon), pukeko (blue flamingo), tui, kea, kakariki, kaka, takahe, and weka.
Although it can be reached by car, a more pleasant way to get there (weather permitting) is by following the path along the edge of the lake - about 15 minutes walk from the town’s visitor centre is all it takes. That’s how I accidentally found it … I went for a stroll to explore the outstanding lake views and see where the path went, and suddenly found myself among an amazing assortment of birds. You can get quite close to some of them (if they cooperate), and information panels tell you something about what you’re looking at.
Views on the walk to the centre
Most people visit Te Anau in order to see Milford Sound or Doubtful Sound, walk the Milford Track, or partake of the multitude of other well promoted excursions in the area. The Te Anau Wildlife Centre gets little publicity in comparison, but also deserves a place on any visitor’s itinerary. Seeing so many beautiful birds in one charming location, with no entry fee, is a blessing all too many visitors miss out on.
Link:
NZ Dept of Conservation - Te Anau Wildlife Centre
(more information, including map)
Topics: Alternatives, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
New Zealand Budget Accommodation In Comfort
Friday, March 27th, 2009Backpacker hostels have really taken off in New Zealand. But what if you’re a solo budget traveller who is of an age where sharing a dormitory no longer appeals? Fortunately, New Zealand has options for solo travellers wanting the comfort of a private room, but without the expense of hotels or motels.
A BBH hostel near the river, Christchurch
One option is covered by the BBH backpacker network. As well as having the biggest range of hostels, BHH caters better for singles than the YHA and VIP hostels which are the main alternatives. Not all BBH hostels have single rooms, but many do - their website and guide sets out the facilities clearly.
Prices vary, but generally fit somewhere between a dormitory bed and the full price of a twin room. This is better than the YHA hostels, which don’t seem to have single rooms … and charge the rate for two people if you want a twin or double room to yourself. Even if you wouldn’t normally think of staying in a hostel, a private room in a BBH hostel outside of the city centres can be more pleasant than you’d expect.
Another option is the motor camp, or holiday park. These are known elsewhere as campgrounds or caravan parks - places where you can park a campervan or caravan, or pitch a tent. They also have various standards of permanent accommodation which includes cabins - ranging from simple wooden huts with shared facilities to very comfortable tiny homes with en-suites and their own kitchens. Whatever the cabins have, the facilities of the park itself can also be used, such as campers kitchens, laundry and internet access.
The most basic cabin I stayed in was at a motor camp in Glenorchy. It was little more than a garden shed sized wooden box with a bunk bed, but it was private and very cheap. At the other end of the scale, the cabin I enjoyed at Pohara Beach, in the Golden Bay area, was pure indulgence. Quiet location, right on the beach with sea views, and still cheaper (off-season) for one person than the budget motels in the area, which weren’t on the beach.
Cabins at a motor camp outside Queenstown
The most consistently high standards are at parks belonging to the Top 10 chain; most other parks are independantly owned and operated, with a wide range of standards and prices.
A major benefit of motor camps - apart from economical comfort - is their great range of out-of-town locations. If you want to stray from the most well-trodden paths, you’ll be more likely to find motor camps up the scenic back roads than hotels or motels.
Another reason to stay in motor camps is the clientele. Budget hostels and hotels tend to be well frequented by overseas travellers, whereas motor camps tend to be more popular with New Zealanders exploring their own back yard. This aspect might appeal if you’re wanting to feel less like a tourist and mingle with more locals.
Even if you normally only stay in hotels, or backpacker dorms, motor camp cabins and private rooms in BBH hostels are worth adding to your list of options. I’ll be highlighting some specific examples in future posts.
Links:
Top 10 Holiday Parks
BBH Budget Backpacker Hostels
Topics: Accommodation, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
St Bathans - Ghost Town With A Non-Human Tour Guide
Monday, March 16th, 2009
St Bathans is an old gold mining town in New Zealand, and with a population these days of only seven (or five) it is often referred to as a ghost town. I enjoyed being shown around this charming place by a guide who wasn’t human … but it’s not as it sounds. My guide had fur and four legs, and was a dog named Jack.
Visiting St Bathans took me to the remotest corner of the Maniototo region, a part of New Zealand’s south island which is somewhat “out of the way” as far as tourism is concerned. It lies between Queenstown and Dunedin, but most of the traffic passes far to the south. The resulting lack of crowds, especially in winter, seems so appropriate for a ghost town.
On parking the car - you need your own wheels to get there - I was met by the friendly face of a dog who appeared pleased to meet me. When I walked up a hill to get a good view of the area, the dog playfully followed. I spent a while checking out Blue Lake, the result of a 120m hill being dug away by miners to leave a 68m deep pit … which then flooded. When I returned down the hill, the dog led the way.
For the next little while I wandered around the leftovers of what was a bustling town of 2000 gold miners back in it’s heyday, after gold was found in the 1860s. Everywhere I walked, this companionable dog led the way, anticipating where I would go next. I got the sense he had accompanied many visitors before me!
St Bathans has a good selection of old buildings, six of which are registered by the NZ Historic Places Trust. Built of wood, stone or mud brick, many are well preserved while a few are in varying stages of falling down. The old schoolhouse, church and graveyard are particularly ambient, and some of the stone cottages on the main street are quaintly attractive.
Being surrounded by hills and mountains serves to heighten the sense of isolation, in both time and space. St Bathans can be even further removed from similarity to other New Zealand towns if you visit in winter, when lakes in the area may freeze over, and snow sometimes lies on the ground. Remnant snowpatches, solitude, deserted old buildings, and no sound except the wind whistling in the trees … all can combine to create an eerie atmosphere.
Eventually the dog led me back to the historic Vulcan Hotel, which has been operating since 1882 and is still a great spot for refreshments, and also offers accommodation. It was there I learned that the dog’s name was Jack, and that I was by no means the first to enjoy his company on a tour of his town. While Jack rested outside, I rested inside and chatted to one of the few residents of this distinctive area.
If you’re into historic places which have retained their authentic charm, without being “developed” into big attractions, a wander around St Bathans - with or without a canine guide - is worth the effort of getting there.
Links:
Google map showing St Bathans location
Topics: New Zealand (south), Towns | Add Your Comment »
Maniototo: A Different New Zealand
Sunday, March 1st, 2009
This post concerns the part of Central Otago shown blue and green (map from Central Otago website)
The Maniototo region is a part of New Zealand’s south island between Dunedin and Queenstown which is bypassed by most foreign visitors. This is a shame, as they are missing out on a beautiful part of the country that’s distinctly different from the rest.
I missed out on it for a long time too, because the main transport routes used by travellers bypass the area. It wasn’t until my last trip, when I made the effort to “fill in the blanks” using a hire car, that I was rewarded with what has become one of my favourite bits of kiwiland.
The area known as Maniototo consists of elevated plains separated by mountain ranges with interesting rock formations and little in the way of development, other than farms. Towns include Middlemarch, Ranfurly, Naseby, St Bathans, Oturehua, Omakau and Ophir, but don’t be surprised if you haven’t heard of any of them. Ranfurly is the largest with a population of only 400, and St Bathans has about 7. That’s one of the area’s features: lots of wide open spaces without crowds.
Another feature is the climate. The central Otago region, which includes Maniototo, is further from the sea than elswhere in New Zealand and has the country’s nearest thing to a continental climate. This means low rainfall, sparse vegetation, and New Zealand’s coldest winters and warmest summers. Many ponds and lakes freeze in winter and are used for the sport of curling. Frosts can be spectacular - for those who appreciate their beauty - and the warm, dry summer days draw locals from the cooler coastal areas.
While not boasting mega tourist magnets like other areas, the Maniototo area is not without attractions. The Otago Central Rail Trail is becoming a popular way to explore the area between Middlemarch and Clyde (near Alexandra). Ranfurly has it’s art-deco weekend, Naseby has some of the best mountain biking trails in New Zealand, and in winter curling is played on the area’s ice rinks or lakes. Fishing, horse-trekking and four wheel drive tours are on offer, and the region’s gold-mining history adds some ambience, particularly in the ghost town of St Bathans.
When I visited, I wandered in the forests around Naseby, hiked a section of the rail trail, and visited some historic sites. I particularly enjoyed cruising the almost empty roads and stopping to explore towns and rock features on foot. The only traffic jam I experienced was a flock of sheep blocking a back road, but by then I had relaxed so much it provided not annoyance, but an excuse to stop and gaze at the mountains …. which are never far away.
The beauty of Maniototo is not dramatic and “in your face” like it is in other parts of New Zealand. Instead it has a subtle charm and unique character that grows on you … it certainly grew on me. In future posts I’ll share more of what I found in this special part of New Zealand.
Links:
Maniototo - general introduction by the Maniototo Information Centre
Central Otago - more details from Tourism Central Otago
Otago Central Rail Trail - all about the rail trail and the area’s facilities, with a good downloadable map of the region
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Matukituki Valley, New Zealand
Saturday, January 31st, 2009
One of my many favourite parts of New Zealand is the Matukituki Valley, located near Wanaka in the south island. Apart from a gravel road and some sheep farms lower down, there is no development up this spectacular valley which curves towards the Matterhorn-like Mt Aspiring. Just rugged snow capped mountains, a sparkling crystal clear river, and enough serenity to help with appreciating it.
Most visitors to New Zealand get to glimpse the bottom end of the Matukituki Valley, which is visible across the lake from Wanaka. Skiers who leave the main trails at the Treble Cone ski area can get a good view up this valley, which is how I first became aware of it - and tempted by its allure.
When I next returned to the area with a hire car, I set out to discover what I’d admired from afar. After the ski area turn-off the road turns to gravel, but is of a good standard. The only hiccup could be where the road fords a few small creeks - fine most of the year, but high water levels during the spring melt could occasionally be an obstacle. Even if this is the case, travelling as far as the first ford is still a worthwhile excursion.
As I cruised up the valley, sheep paddocks gave way to increasing amounts of beech forest. Changing vistas of untamed river, forest, snow-capped mountains and glaciers made the drive delightfully scenic and memorable.
Some great hikes can be accessed from the road’s end, which mean the road is well travelled by hikers in the warmer months. But if you visit in winter, as I did, you might share the valley with very few others. Hikers are scarce in winter due to the weather and avalanche risk, and it’s the non-fishing season, so solitude and a tangible sense of being in a wilderness can be enjoyed.
That’s what I did … I just chilled out by the river, soaking up the unblemished scenery and sense of wilderness, and pondering which walks I might do on my next visit to the Matukituki Valley.
Links:
NZ Department of Conservation - Matukituki Valley info
Google map of Matukituki Valley location
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »