Tasmania
Hobart Astor Hotel
Tuesday, December 8th, 2009
Astor Private Hotel, Hobart
On my last visit to Hobart I was a little bit demanding. I wanted a private room somewhere that was comfortable, centrally located (but not too noisy), and much nicer than a backpackers … and all for much cheaper than a motel. A tall order, perhaps, but the Hotel Astor ticked all the boxes.
Normally I avoid hotels because of the cost, but the Astor is priced very reasonably for a hotel if you don’t need an en-suite bathroom. In fact, with the reduced winter rates, a room there was slightly cheaper than a room at the Adelphi Lodge YHA hostel, 3km from Hobart’s centre. I stayed at Adelphi Lodge once before - and while it’s a good hostel in a quiet area, it’s not quite up to the standard of the Hotel Astor, and not as conveniently located.
The Astor is within walking distance of just about anywhere you’d want to walk in central Hobart. However it avoids the noise and antisocial behaviour which can sometimes be a disadvantage of central city accommodation. The Elizabeth St bus mall and waterfront areas, which seem to be Hobart’s nearest thing to night time trouble spots, are not close enough to be a concern.
Comfortable, cosy and clean also describe the place. The rooms I stayed in were tastefully decorated but basic by hotel standards, but luxurious by backpacker standards. Most importantly, the beds were comfortable. Radiators kept the rooms warm, but what I appreciated was the option to go without heating and open the window - something not possible in many flashier places.
Hobart waterfront, a 10-15 min stroll from the Astor
Some rooms are en-suite, but the cheaper rooms make use of shared toilets, and shared individual shower rooms. All were clean, and the showers would have to be the most satisfying I’ve used in Tasmanian accommodation.
Breakfast is included in the rate, consisting of self serve cereal, toast, juice and tea/coffee in a shared dining room. Also shared is a cosy lounge room with TV, refrigerator and small book exchange - some of the communal benefits of hostels which you normally don’t get in more up market places.
A great asset of the Astor is Tildy, the woman who runs it. Her delightfully unique character ensures the place is both well run and welcoming. Another asset is the outlet of Jackman and McRoss - one of Hobart’s best and most popular bakeries. While separate from the hotel, it is downstairs in another part of the same building: perhaps a little too convenient if you’re trying to lose weight!
If you’re looking for somewhere in Hobart that’s comfortable, central but not too expensive, and combines the best elements of hostel, hotel and B&B, I can recommend the Astor. I hope to stay there again some day.
More information:
The Astor Private Hotel
Note - as always, these are my own honest and unbiased opinions, written without any rewards or inducements.
Topics: Accommodation, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Up The Plateau From Deloraine
Wednesday, November 18th, 2009
Tasmania boasts many beautiful scenic drives. One of my favourites is the road which ascends from Deloraine, in the north, up the side of the central plateau. Steep climbs, hairpin bends, lush forest and panoramic views make for a pleasant driving experience.
The road is known as the either the Lakes Highway, or the Highland Lakes Road, depending on which map you read. Both are preferable to its other designation, the A5. Beginning from the small town of Deloraine, it traverses lush green farmland before starting its climb - and what a climb! From just 230 metres above sea level, it reaches 1209m at its highest point, which for Australia is a very large altitude gain in a relatively short distance. The vegetation also changes dramatically over the half hour drive, and the drop in temperature is very noticeable if you drive with the windows down.
Once climbing, tight bends force a reduction in speed, which allows a better appreciation of the forest the road passes through. Towards the top of the climb, a small lookout on the east side of the road, with limited parking, provides good views over the coastal plains and the plateau escarpment.
When the plateau’s top is reached, the road flattens out and winds through low sub-alpine landscapes vastly different from the country down below. You really feel like you’re in another world, and climatically speaking, you are. A short side road leads to Pine Lake - apart from the the lake there is a half hour walk trail featuring pencil pines, which are unique to Tasmania.
A few kilometres beyond Pine Lake, another lookout (really just a bit of parking space beside the road) reveals the expanse of Australia’s second largest natural freshwater lake - Great Lake. After a short descent the road deteriorates to pot-holed gravel and follows this high altitute lake for the next 40km or so, and can be used as a direct route to Lake St Clare or the southern parts of the state. If you continue this way you’ll see a unique part of Tasmania which most visitors miss. Alternatively, the lookout over Great Lake is a suitable spot to turn around and return to Deloraine. The descent off the plateau is a different experience to the climb, and possibly even more enjoyable.
The downside of the road’s altitude is that the higher parts are prone to ice and snow. Only a small number of days each year are affected, and road closures generally don’t last more than a day or two, but if you’re in the area during winter or early spring it pays to keep an eye on the weather.
As well as being a through route, and providing access to Pine Lake, the road up the plateau from Deloraine also leads to an access road for the Liffey Falls which are well worth a look. The more energetic can also use the road to access walks such as Quamby Bluff, Projection Bluff, Liffey River track and Warners track. If you enjoy driving through good scenery, however, the drive up the plateau from Deloraine is worth doing purely for its own sake.
Looking south across Great Lake and the Central Plateau after ascending from Deloraine
Topics: Scenic Roads, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Free Glow-Worms In Tasmania
Sunday, June 7th, 2009Glow-worms can be viewed on a number of paid tours, such as Waitomo Caves and Te Anau in New Zealand, and Marakoopa Cave in northern Tasmania. Less well known is the fact that anyone can see these luminous insects - without having to pay or enter a cave - near one of Tasmania’s most popular attractions.
The location is Russell Falls, 75km west of Hobart - possibly the most beautiful waterfall in the state, and one which nearly everyone who visits Tasmania sees at some point.
The catch: the falls are normally visited in daylight, whereas the glow-worms are only visible when it’s dark. This generally limits the glow worms’ visitors to those with their own transport who linger after dusk, or those staying in the area’s limited accommodation. If you have a van or are otherwise equipped for camping, the Land of the Giants Campground is a very pleasant spot by the river within walking distance of the falls.
Seeing the glow worms is easy. Once it is dark, simply grab a torch and follow the flat and easy walking path towards Russell Falls, about ten minutes from the car park. A small glow worm grotto - some damp rock overhangs and fallen trees - is in the rainforest on the left side of the track shortly before the falls. A sign indicates the area, and tells you where to look.
After your eyes have adjusted to the dark, the luminous larvae of the mosquito-like insects become more visible, and can resemble a field of stars in the night sky.
The glow worms at Russell Falls are not as impressive, nor nearly as extensive, as the displays you pay to see in caves elsewhere. But if you’re in that part of Tasmania it is a free and easy glimpse into their world, and the local wildlife makes a dusk walk in the Russell Falls area a pleasant thing anyway.
Links:
Parks & Wildlife Service - Mt Field National Park
Wikipedia article on Arachnocampa (the genus of glow-worms found down under)
Topics: Alternatives, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
The Overlooked Mt King William, Tasmania
Monday, April 13th, 2009
Do you recognise the Tasmanian mountain in this photo? Most would either have no idea which it is, or else confuse it with the more famous Cradle Mountain, which is similar. If you recognised it as Mt King William 1 (without needing to read the text) … congratulations, you’re one of the few.
The first of three main peaks in the King William Range shares much with Cradle Mountain. Both are part of Tasmania’s central highlands, of comparable height, similar geology, and are regularly snowcapped in winter. Most notable is the strikingly similar shape, at least at first glance. However that’s where the similarities end. Cradle Mountain is a Tasmanian icon which every visitor travels far to get a glimpse of, whereas most of those same visitors drive right past Mt King William 1 without even stopping.
This overlooked and under-appreciated mountain is located near the middle of Tasmania - just south of the Lyell Highway which connects Hobart with the west coast. It’s only about 10km west of Derwent Bridge (the turn-off to Lake St Clair), and can be viewed from a small roadside rest area right on the divide between west- and east-flowing rivers. Being near the highway’s highest point (981m), the area can sometimes be in cloud … which could account for some not realising the mountain is there.
The rest area beside Lyell Highway
If Mt King William 1 is visible, I can recommend a rest stop to “smell the roses” and absorb the views. A little cloud can be a good thing, as varying light can quickly change the mood. Some small ponds also provide photo opportunities, and the fresh highland air can be invigorating after sitting in a car.
Virtually every visitor to Tasmania passes along this road. All it takes to enjoy a mountain which most barely notice is the decision to stop (weather permitting) and enjoy more of the journey, instead of pressing on to the destination.
Link:
Google map showing location of Mt King William 1 roadside rest area
Topics: Attractions, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Delightful Place Names Of Tasmania
Friday, December 12th, 2008Australia has some weird and wonderful place names, and investigating colourfully-named locations can be a great excuse for wandering off the main roads. I’ve done this in Tasmania, which has its fair share of odd and quaint labels.
Names like Fern Tree or Flowery Gully are straightforward, as they describe what you’ll find there. I didn’t spot the hollow tree which I assume Hollow Tree was named after, but I did see a penguin at the town of Penguin.
Near Paradise, Tasmania
Some names are alluring, almost begging to be visited. Are the localities of Paradise, Plenty and Promised Land as attractive as they sound? They looked pretty good to me, as they obviously did for those who named them. Is Adventure Bay as much fun as the name suggests? How would you feel in Snug? I did feel snug in the town of Snug, but haven’t yet made it to Adventure Bay.
Other names may arouse curiosity. What have the people at Detention Point been up to? How much suffering really goes on at Cramps Bay? Some names have historical explanations - Eggs and Bacon Bay might be where Lady Jane Franklin (18th century governor’s wife) once either ordered or was served eggs and bacon. But how Nowhere Else got its name is something I’ve yet to learn.
My favourite place name belongs to Flowerpot, a rural community on the coast south of Hobart. I love the quaintness of the name, and find it amusing to think that some people are able to say “I live in Flowerpot”. The drive through the area was very enjoyable, but gave no obvious reason for the name. Perhaps I’ll stop and ask someone about it on my next trip … as well as satisfying my curiosity about Adventure Bay and Nowhere Else.
Eggs and Bacon Bay, Tasmania
Topics: Odds and Ends, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Great Lake Hotel - Refuge In A Storm
Friday, December 5th, 2008In the middle of Tasmania lies a plateau dotted with lakes, and next to the biggest lake sits the Great Lake Hotel. In the quiet of winter it is a great place to shelter from passing snowstorms.
Great Lake Hotel; cabins and motel units at right rear
For much of the year the highland lakes are popular with fisherman, but I’m not into fishing - I just like out-of-the-way places bypassed by most tourists. Another lure is the offer of budget accomodation in an area which receives the most regular snowfalls outside the mainland ski resorts. I stayed there last winter, arriving just as snow began to fall.
The Great Lake Hotel is a country pub with more accommodation options than your typical drinking establishment. I stayed in a cheap and basic fisherman’s cabin, but there are also nicer motel and hotel rooms, plus sites for campervans out the back.
Part of the lake view
Wherever you lay your head, most people end up in the main bar area, with its restaurant and verandah. In cold weather, the roaring log fire forms a cosy centrepiece, with the grand view of the lake outside the window adding to the charm. It feels even more cosy if you can gaze out the window and watch the snow falling outside.
Apart from its vantage point next to Great Lake, the hotel is a focal point for the locality of Miena. This community of highland fishing shacks is the nearest thing to a town on Tasmania’s central plateau. The hotel, with the adjoining general store, forms the hub of the community - something I gained a sense of in my longer than expected stay.
The snow which fell upon my arrival at the Great Lake Hotel closed the roads to two wheel drive vehicles, and it was three days before I could safely drive away. Even then it took a bit of snow shovelling before I could reach the road.
A good day not to go driving
Looking back, the enforced lingering made me slow down and appreciate an area which is truly unique in Australia, and which few visitors to Tasmania get to see. Finding a cosy refuge at the Great Lake Hotel made it possible.
Some clarification: The snow I experienced was unusually heavy and persistent. Normally the snow around Great Lake is much lighter, with lengthy snow-free periods between falls - even in winter.
Link:
Google map showing Great Lake Hotel location
Topics: Accommodation, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Lower Liffey Falls Walk Trail
Monday, December 1st, 2008
Drys Bluff on the approach to Liffey
Tucked away in a tranquil northern Tasmanian valley lie the beautiful Liffey Falls. The waterfall itself is what draws visitors, usually via the more direct upper track. The longer and less-used lower track, however, is a worthy attraction in its own right, and could be one of the most pleasant forest walks in the region.
The falls are only a 45 minute return walk from the upper car park, which accounts for the popularity of that approach. By comparison, the lower car park is quoted as being three hours return walk from the falls - an obvious deterrent for those looking to save time and energy. I first visited the Liffey Falls using the popular route, and it was delightful, but on my last visit I used the lower road because it is better suited for campervans. I was in for a treat.
Lower Liffey Reserve campsite
Even just getting to the lower track is a delight. The steep edge of the central plateau - known as the Great Western Tiers - looms large as you cross lush green farmland towards the Liffey River. As the valley closes in, you pass through the idyllic-looking locality of Liffey, where Australian Greens senator Bob Brown has a cottage. Retreating here has helped Bob maintain sanity in the world of politics, and it’s not hard to see why - he picked a great spot. Continuing up the narrowing road brings you to the Lower Liffey Reserve campground.
Facilities at this campground include a pair of clean flushing toilets … and not much else. It’s really just a trailhead with lots of space to camp, but if you’re self sufficient it can be a pleasant place to stay, under the trees by the river, feeling remote from the rest of the world. It was one of my favourite overnight stops when touring Tasmania last winter.
Walking to the falls from here is relatively easy; much of the track follows old rail trails used for logging around a century ago. In two places the Liffey River is crossed on small but sturdy bridges, providing opportunities to pause and soak up the sound of the gurgling waters.
Liffey Falls
The lush forest you pass through is a fine sample of what nature can build if left undisturbed long enough. Glimpses of Dry’s Bluff appear through the trees in a few spots, as a reminder that the plateau edge is near. A fresh dusting of snow on the Bluff might top off the scene if you time it right.
A little steepening of the track precedes arrival at the falls. Many think Liffey Falls rival Russell Falls as Tasmania’s prettiest, but however you rank them, it is a lovely spot to sit and soak up the scenery. The viewing platform is small, but steps down to the river give access to more viewpoints, and rocks to sit on.
Returning is via the same route, and if you appreciate peaceful and gentle forest trails like I do, you’ll have enjoyed a beautiful walk. The presence of a waterfall at the other end of the track is icing on the cake.
Liffey River below the falls
More info from the Australian Rail trails website:
Liffey Falls Rail Trail
Topics: Tasmania, Walks | Add Your Comment »