Walks
Easy Kiwi Walking On The Rakiura Track
Sunday, September 20th, 2009Imagine deserted beaches, quiet inlets and bays, lush primordial forests, roaring creeks, and gentle hills. If being immersed in this environment for a not-too-hard three day hike sounds appealing, then you might like the Rakiura Track on New Zealand’s Stewart Island. I certainly did.
I visited during the winter off-season, as part of a visit to the charming Stewart Island, which is off the bottom of the south island near Invercargill. What attracted me to the Rakiura Track was its “easy” grading and the length of 36km, which can be done comfortably in three days. As a person of questionable fitness I thought this would be a much kinder introduction to hiking in New Zealand than the more demanding tracks on the mainland.
The Rakiura Track is a circular route, beginning and ending at the island’s only settlement at Halfmoon Bay, so no transport is needed. My hike began as soon as I had registered at the DOC office and paid the hut fees. The first and last sections follow sealed roads, but they are extremely quiet - I don’t remember seeing any traffic on my walk.
I decided to walk anticlockwise, which meant the first day’s walk was north along the coast on mostly excellent surfaces. There was a little beach walking, some panoramic coastal views, and plenty of deliciously lush rimu and kamahi forest to relax in. Also a swing bridge which threatened my fear of heights, even though I new it was well built and perfectly safe.
The second day was mostly forested hills, and provided the bulk of the track’s uphill walking. By New Zealand standards the hills are small, but for the unfit they are still tiring enough! The extensive view from the track’s high point, over Paterson Inlet and the wilderness beyond, compensated for the perspiration.
Day three provided more exquisite forest, skirting deserted silent inlets and gentle hills before re-entering town from the west.
Both nights of the walk were spent in very well equipped huts - sheer luxury if you’re used to walking in Australia where huts are comparatively rare. I never quite managed to get the stoves lit, but thanks to the wonders of thermal underwear the huts felt cosy enough without heating.
Overall it was an excellent experience, my only grumble (and it’s only a little one) being the striking difference in track quality between the east section and the rest. The deterioration from paved gravel, stones and boardwalk on day one to bare mud and tree roots on day two gave the impression the track was still under construction. It seemed odd that a track rated top standard could vary so much, but this was overshadowed by the pure charm of the environment.
As for the track’s official grading as “easy” … it may be easy compared to other NZ tracks, but the effort required is not to be sneezed at when you’re carrying a backpack. If you’re fit and hike regularly it may well seem easy. On the other hand, sedentary workers who hike once per year can find it tiring … but not too much to enjoy it.
I walked this three day hike in winter and had it almost to myself; the quietness and solitude enhanced my enjoyment of what is mostly wilderness with little evidence of human interferance. I also enjoyed mostly dry weather which contradicted the island’s reputation for being wet all the time - this reputation is undeserved, though it’s still wise to take wet weather gear. It may not rain all the time, but it still rains frequently.
The Rakiura Track shows what much of New Zealand was like before 90% of its forests were destroyed. If you want to do a multi-day hike in New Zealand, but prefer something less demanding than the better known tracks, and away from the crowds, then the Rakiura Track is worth considering.
Links:
Rakiura Track information (NZ Dept of Conservation)
Topics: New Zealand (south), Walks | Add Your Comment »
Lower Liffey Falls Walk Trail
Monday, December 1st, 2008
Drys Bluff on the approach to Liffey
Tucked away in a tranquil northern Tasmanian valley lie the beautiful Liffey Falls. The waterfall itself is what draws visitors, usually via the more direct upper track. The longer and less-used lower track, however, is a worthy attraction in its own right, and could be one of the most pleasant forest walks in the region.
The falls are only a 45 minute return walk from the upper car park, which accounts for the popularity of that approach. By comparison, the lower car park is quoted as being three hours return walk from the falls - an obvious deterrent for those looking to save time and energy. I first visited the Liffey Falls using the popular route, and it was delightful, but on my last visit I used the lower road because it is better suited for campervans. I was in for a treat.
Lower Liffey Reserve campsite
Even just getting to the lower track is a delight. The steep edge of the central plateau - known as the Great Western Tiers - looms large as you cross lush green farmland towards the Liffey River. As the valley closes in, you pass through the idyllic-looking locality of Liffey, where Australian Greens senator Bob Brown has a cottage. Retreating here has helped Bob maintain sanity in the world of politics, and it’s not hard to see why - he picked a great spot. Continuing up the narrowing road brings you to the Lower Liffey Reserve campground.
Facilities at this campground include a pair of clean flushing toilets … and not much else. It’s really just a trailhead with lots of space to camp, but if you’re self sufficient it can be a pleasant place to stay, under the trees by the river, feeling remote from the rest of the world. It was one of my favourite overnight stops when touring Tasmania last winter.
Walking to the falls from here is relatively easy; much of the track follows old rail trails used for logging around a century ago. In two places the Liffey River is crossed on small but sturdy bridges, providing opportunities to pause and soak up the sound of the gurgling waters.
Liffey Falls
The lush forest you pass through is a fine sample of what nature can build if left undisturbed long enough. Glimpses of Dry’s Bluff appear through the trees in a few spots, as a reminder that the plateau edge is near. A fresh dusting of snow on the Bluff might top off the scene if you time it right.
A little steepening of the track precedes arrival at the falls. Many think Liffey Falls rival Russell Falls as Tasmania’s prettiest, but however you rank them, it is a lovely spot to sit and soak up the scenery. The viewing platform is small, but steps down to the river give access to more viewpoints, and rocks to sit on.
Returning is via the same route, and if you appreciate peaceful and gentle forest trails like I do, you’ll have enjoyed a beautiful walk. The presence of a waterfall at the other end of the track is icing on the cake.
Liffey River below the falls
More info from the Australian Rail trails website:
Liffey Falls Rail Trail
Topics: Tasmania, Walks | Add Your Comment »