Although classed as a backpacker hostel, the owners take pride in it being small and homely, which it is. If you imagine a big two-storey house with lots of bedrooms, a cosy lounge room and a log fire, then you’ve got the picture. Its location on the quieter fringes of the central city area also set it apart from other hostels which tend to position themselves nearer to the city centre but in less charming settings.

The clincher for me was the way solo travellers are catered for. That is, solo travellers who don’t want to share a dormitory with strangers, something which can become less appealling with age. Dorset House (and other BBH hostels) have rooms specifically for singles. Naturally they cost more than a dorm bed, but are less than the twin or double rooms which the hostel also has. Treating people on their own with as much respect as people who are accompanied is something that more expensive places could get better at!

The real beds (not bunks) and comfort of the rooms make it easy to forget you’re in a hostel - until you leave your room and use the shared facilities. Communal lounges are one of the strengths of hostels, and having a very well equipped shared kitchen at one’s disposal can be a fantastic asset. Not just for saving money by self-catering … I used the kitchen at Dorset to prepare daily rations for a camping trip, something which would have been much harder in a motel or hotel.

If you don’t want to do your own food, there are plenty of eating places in the vicinity. Nearby Victoria Rd, a main road heading north-west out of the city, hosts a variety of eating places and cafes. Procope Cafe, just around the corner from the hostel, does delightful breakfasts and coffee. I found this cafe after running out of breakfast cereal near the end of my trip, and wished I’d run out of cereal sooner.

Dorset House is about ten or fifteen or twenty minutes walk from the city centre - depending on your route and how fast you walk. While it may have an “away from the hustle and bustle” feel to it, the hostel is still within walking distance of most of the central city if you don’t mind using your legs.

Another selling point is the proximity to the Avon River, just 200 metres to the west. A relaxing stroll along this gentle river, among manicured park land, provides access to the western end of central Christchurch - not a bad way of getting around.

I stayed at Dorset House at the beginning and end of my last NZ trip, and also during the middle when I switched from bus mode to car mode. It was a beautifully comfortable home base, made particularly welcoming by the friendliness and helpfulness of its hosts and staff. Next time I go to Christchurch, I know where I’ll want to stay!

More information:
Dorset House website (very comprehensive)
Dorset House page on BBH hostels website

The sand dunes are about 20km southwest of Pemberton, and are an odd sight when you first come upon them, rising up to 40m above otherwise normal forest. They form a ten kilometre long body of sand being blown inland, swallowing the forest at a rate of about 4 metres each year. Slow, but unstoppable.

Having a look around the dunes, or at least their edges, provides a refreshingly different angle on what is mostly a forested and farmed region. Here are three ways of getting a taste of it.

1. Organised 4WD tour

Pemberton Discovery Tours operate trips in 4WD vehicles with experienced drivers. Although the Yeagarup dunes are “land-locked”, they aren’t far from the coast, and the tour takes you right to a wild deserted beach where the Warren River gently enters the sea. The tour also passes through old growth karri forest, with good descriptions of everything you see.

I’ve done this tour, and learned from the commentary despite being already well acqainted with the region. It’s a great way for non-4WD vehicle owners to see an interesting area few get to see, with someone skilled and experienced to worry about driving safely through some very hair-raising terrain.

2. Do-it-yourself 4WD tour

Anybody with their own four wheel drive vehicle can drive through the Yeagarup dunes to the coast. The catch is that you would need to be confident with driving through deep sand with some very steep slopes, and possibly no-one else around to call on for help if stuck.

3. Do-it-yourself walking tour with conventional car

This option is available to anyone who has a regular two wheel drive car and the willingness to go walking. It’s also the cheapskates option, which may be why it was how I first explored the Yeagarup dunes!

From Pemberton, head towards Nannup on the Vasse Highway. About 12km from Pemberton, turn left down Ritter Road. Thls turnoff is near where Old Vasse Rd (through the Warren National Park) joins the highway. Continue down the gravel Ritter Road, and after a further 11km you’ll reach Yeagarup Lake with its picnic area and toilet. Beyond this point is strictly for four wheel drive vehicles, so if you’re in a regular car, park here.

After taking in the small lake, proceed on foot down the sandy track which is a continuation of Ritter Rd. Not far down this track a wall of sand is encountered, appearing very out of place in the thick forest. The exact spot where you leave the track to climb the dunes will vary from year to year, but should be clear enough when you come to it. Remember to keep an ear open for approaching vehicles, and be ready to quickly move aside off the sometimes narrow track.

Once up on the sand, you’re in another world. To one side spreads a view over low forest, dense and green, while on the other stretches just sand - and lots of it. Part beach-like, part desert-like, it forms a stark contrast to the surroundings.

Away from any vegetation, you can pretend to be in part of the Sahara desert, and take suitable photos. Sand-boarding could be an option if you’ve got something to slide down large dunes on. Otherwise, just going for a wander to explore the dunes - wherever takes your fancy - can pass the time pleasantly. The coast is too far for a return day walk, but there’s plenty of sand to explore.

I should point out that walking in the soft sand can be sweaty work, even in winter, so a drink bottle might be appreciated. Also, if you plan on walking far, look back and take a mental picture of where you entered the dunes … to help you find the exit point later! Some days finding your way out may be easy. On cloudy days, with fresh tracks scarce and footprints wind-covered, it may not be so obvious.

When you’ve had your fill of mobile forest-eating sand dunes, simply return the way you came.

More information:
Yeagarup Dunes (Pemberton WA website)
D’Entrecasteaux National Park (Dept of Environment & Conservation)
Pemberton Discovery Tours (look under Beach & Forest Eco Adventure)

Merredin, with around 3000 people theses days, is an important wheatbelt service town mid-way between Perth and Kalgoorlie. In older days it gained importance not just for agriculture but with its strategic location en route to the flourishing goldfields. Railways played a large role in the area’s history, so it seems appropriate that a museum be located in the old railway station building.

The Merredin Railway Station Museum is right near the centre of town - next to the main highway heading east but largely overlooked by the busy passing traffic. Upon entering and paying the small fee (adults $4 when I visited in 2009) you are given a little booklet which serves as a good guide to the museum. One of the impressions I left with was just how well organised and labelled the collection was. Whatever your level of interest may be, there is enough detail to feed it.

Plenty of photos and written descriptions fill the rooms of the old station, including the early settler women’s room, but here they play a supporting role. Central to the collection is an abundance of diverse objects: genuine artefacts from the past. Most are connected in some way with the railways, but not all.

One which caught my interest was a wheelbarrow used by prospectors to haul their gear from Perth to the goldfields before the railways arrived. I’d read how they used to push their loads hundreds of kilometres across untamed land, but to see one of these heavy-looking wheelbarrows in real life gave me new respect for the challenges people faced back then … and the difference the railways must have made.

Outside, the platforms provide an open-air collection of larger objects. Parked on one railway track is an assortment of train carriages and engines, including a steam engine waiting to be restored. While I was there a bunch of children amused themselves happily pretending to be engine drivers. You can also climb up into the signal cabin where a mass of levers control the surrounding tracks, while catching a view of the town.

Train buffs and boys of all ages will probably find this museum most appealing. However anyone with an interest in scratching beneath the surface to get a feel for the area’s history should get something out of it. Check with the visitors centre in Merredin for current opening times.

More information:
Merredin Railway Museum
Central Wheatbelt Visitor Centre (Merredin)

Astor Private Hotel, Hobart

On my last visit to Hobart I was a little bit demanding. I wanted a private room somewhere that was comfortable, centrally located (but not too noisy), and much nicer than a backpackers … and all for much cheaper than a motel. A tall order, perhaps, but the Hotel Astor ticked all the boxes.

Normally I avoid hotels because of the cost, but the Astor is priced very reasonably for a hotel if you don’t need an en-suite bathroom. In fact, with the reduced winter rates, a room there was slightly cheaper than a room at the Adelphi Lodge YHA hostel, 3km from Hobart’s centre. I stayed at Adelphi Lodge once before - and while it’s a good hostel in a quiet area, it’s not quite up to the standard of the Hotel Astor, and not as conveniently located.

The Astor is within walking distance of just about anywhere you’d want to walk in central Hobart. However it avoids the noise and antisocial behaviour which can sometimes be a disadvantage of central city accommodation. The Elizabeth St bus mall and waterfront areas, which seem to be Hobart’s nearest thing to night time trouble spots, are not close enough to be a concern.

Comfortable, cosy and clean also describe the place. The rooms I stayed in were tastefully decorated but basic by hotel standards, but luxurious by backpacker standards. Most importantly, the beds were comfortable. Radiators kept the rooms warm, but what I appreciated was the option to go without heating and open the window - something not possible in many flashier places.

Hobart waterfront, a 10-15 min stroll from the Astor

Some rooms are en-suite, but the cheaper rooms make use of shared toilets, and shared individual shower rooms. All were clean, and the showers would have to be the most satisfying I’ve used in Tasmanian accommodation.

Breakfast is included in the rate, consisting of self serve cereal, toast, juice and tea/coffee in a shared dining room. Also shared is a cosy lounge room with TV, refrigerator and small book exchange - some of the communal benefits of hostels which you normally don’t get in more up market places.

A great asset of the Astor is Tildy, the woman who runs it. Her delightfully unique character ensures the place is both well run and welcoming. Another asset is the outlet of Jackman and McRoss - one of Hobart’s best and most popular bakeries. While separate from the hotel, it is downstairs in another part of the same building: perhaps a little too convenient if you’re trying to lose weight!

If you’re looking for somewhere in Hobart that’s comfortable, central but not too expensive, and combines the best elements of hostel, hotel and B&B, I can recommend the Astor. I hope to stay there again some day.

More information:
The Astor Private Hotel

Note - as always, these are my own honest and unbiased opinions, written without any rewards or inducements.

This company is a small and personal husband and wife operation which takes small groups up the Matukituki River and back, with a walk or refreshment break at the furthest point. Brent, the host on my trip, drives the boat expertly at high speed in impossibly shallow water, and is a wealth of information about the area. Not just tour guide trivia either - he is a maori whose ancestors have lived in the area for centuries, so he conveys real passion for the area as well as his extensive local experiences.

The trip provides the exhilaration you’d expect from a jet boat ride in New Zealand, but also allows time to take in the tranquillity and wilderness values of an undeveloped valley that is well worth visiting.

Since I did my trip with them, Wanaka River Journeys has expanded to include an optional guided forest walk on their regular journeys, plus jetboat trips which incorporate a helicopter flight to the Aspiring Glacier or a hike to the Rob Roy Glacier (as if I needed any more temptation to return to Wanaka). Jet boat trips in New Zealand aren’t cheap, but when comparing “bang per buck” I think the trip up the Matukituki River still compares very well with the Queenstown alternatives.

If the thrill of the jet boat ride itself is all you’re after, then the Shotover Jet at Queenstown can be hard to beat for heart-stopping speed in a narrow gorge (although the one at Hanmer Springs comes close). But if you want your boat ride to include fantastic scenery, a wilderness experience, history and culture plus great people, then I can recommend Wanaka River Journeys.

Links:
Wanaka River Journeys

The road is known as the either the Lakes Highway, or the Highland Lakes Road, depending on which map you read. Both are preferable to its other designation, the A5. Beginning from the small town of Deloraine, it traverses lush green farmland before starting its climb - and what a climb! From just 230 metres above sea level, it reaches 1209m at its highest point, which for Australia is a very large altitude gain in a relatively short distance. The vegetation also changes dramatically over the half hour drive, and the drop in temperature is very noticeable if you drive with the windows down.

Once climbing, tight bends force a reduction in speed, which allows a better appreciation of the forest the road passes through. Towards the top of the climb, a small lookout on the east side of the road, with limited parking, provides good views over the coastal plains and the plateau escarpment.

When the plateau’s top is reached, the road flattens out and winds through low sub-alpine landscapes vastly different from the country down below. You really feel like you’re in another world, and climatically speaking, you are. A short side road leads to Pine Lake - apart from the the lake there is a half hour walk trail featuring pencil pines, which are unique to Tasmania.

A few kilometres beyond Pine Lake, another lookout (really just a bit of parking space beside the road) reveals the expanse of Australia’s second largest natural freshwater lake - Great Lake. After a short descent the road deteriorates to pot-holed gravel and follows this high altitute lake for the next 40km or so, and can be used as a direct route to Lake St Clare or the southern parts of the state. If you continue this way you’ll see a unique part of Tasmania which most visitors miss. Alternatively, the lookout over Great Lake is a suitable spot to turn around and return to Deloraine. The descent off the plateau is a different experience to the climb, and possibly even more enjoyable.

The downside of the road’s altitude is that the higher parts are prone to ice and snow. Only a small number of days each year are affected, and road closures generally don’t last more than a day or two, but if you’re in the area during winter or early spring it pays to keep an eye on the weather.

As well as being a through route, and providing access to Pine Lake, the road up the plateau from Deloraine also leads to an access road for the Liffey Falls which are well worth a look. The more energetic can also use the road to access walks such as Quamby Bluff, Projection Bluff, Liffey River track and Warners track. If you enjoy driving through good scenery, however, the drive up the plateau from Deloraine is worth doing purely for its own sake.

Looking south across Great Lake and the Central Plateau after ascending from Deloraine

Mt John is a large hill overlooking Lake Tekapo, just a short drive from the town. What makes it such a great spot for an observatory are the incredibly clear skies it enjoys from its position in the Mackenzie basin - in the rain shadow of the alps, with one of the country’s driest climates. The extra altitude of Mt John, about 1000m, means even less atmosphere between the telescopes and the stars.

The observatory is run by the University of Canterbury, and offers both night and daytime tours. These begin from the Earth and Sky Observatory Tours shop in the middle of town (own transport not needed). I did both tours, starting with the most popular one at night. After being transported up the hill to the observatory buildings, some of the astronomers who work there showed us around, explained their work, and pointed out a variety of features in the sky while we stood outside. It was amazing how much could be seen with the naked eye in such clear conditions, especially with someone knowledgable to show where to look and what to look for.

Inside the observatory domes, the telescopes were aimed at a selection of interesting objects which everyone took turns to look at. More time was spent waiting for a turn than actually looking through telescopes, which is unavoidable in a group situation. However the staff made sure everyone had their fair share, and their commentary, and answers to numerous curly questions, kept us interested while waiting.

The next day, I was the sole person on an afternoon tour. Being daylight, looking through telescopes wasn’t on the menu. Instead, the focus was on other observatory buildings and the extent of astronomical work that goes on at Mt John. Of note was their MOA (Microlensing Observations in Astrophysics) project, in which a sophisticated telescope uses gravitational microlensing (I won’t try to explain it) to detect planets around distant stars. Many such planets have been found using this cutting edge science.

A few things left impressions on me. One was the incredible clarity of the night sky - I’ve seen many clear skies in inland Australia, but the brightness of the stars on a clear frosty night at Mt John rivalled the best of them. Another was the passion and enthusiasm of the astronomers I met - refreshing to experience in a world where mediocrity and disinterest is all too common. I was also left with an invigorated sense of wonder at both the scale of the universe, and the genius of the people and technology involved in studying it.

Nearly everyone who visits New Zealand passes through Lake Tekapo (it’s on the route to Mount Cook and Queenstown), but most only stop for photos and to use the toilets. For anyone able to linger, a visit to the Mt John observatory can add a unique dimension to a kiwi holiday, and many reasons to say “wow!”

Winter view over Lake Tekapo. Even if not touring the observatory, the views and the cafe can be worth a visit.

Links:
About the Mt John Observatory (by Tekapo Tourism)
Earth and Sky Observatory Tours

The road is Boranup Drive, which starts from Caves Road just south of Lake Cave and re-joins Caves Road 11km further south, towards Augusta. If you’re travelling along that part of Caves Road, then a detour up Boranup Drive can be used as a slightly-longer alternative to continuing on the bitumen.

The attraction of this drive is the forest it passes through, and the walks which can be accessed. Boranup forest consists mainly of regrowth karri - the whole area was logged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and the explosion of life you see (up to 60 metres tall) is what has grown back since then. Karri is the third-tallest tree species in the world, and while the trees along Boranup Drive are not quite as tall or wide as the karri regrowth near Pemberton, they are still impressive.

In the middle section of the road lies a small open space which was once a picnic area - it’s at the intersection of a narrow four-wheel-drive trail named Anchor Rd.  The trail is signposted, but the sign is hard to spot (and only if heading north); look for an area of flat open space adjoining the road. The picnic table was removed long ago, and there are no facilities, but it still makes a great spot to park and enjoy some local bakery products while soaking up the forest ambience. Bird noise here can be delightfully cacophanous at times.

This old picnic area can also be the start of some pleasant walks. When the forest was being logged, narrow gauge tram tracks were laid to enable log removal. The routes of these long-gone tracks are now four-wheel-drive trails in varying stages of being overgrown, and they make excellent walking tracks. One way to enjoy them is just go for a wander and see where you end up, and Anchor Rd is a good candidate for this. Another option is to consult the book “Walking the capes” by Jane Scott for some maps and walk descriptions.

Boranup Drive is a firm gravel surface, suitable for conventional cars, although it can be bumpy due to corrugations, pot-holes and rocks. Expect your car to get a good shake-up! It is also narrow, so keep the speed down and be ready to move over and make room for oncoming vehicles. If you don’t mind this sort of driving, Boranup Drive can be a scenic addition to a tour of the Margaret River region.

I stumbled on this little gem while driving around the wheatbelt, a large agricultural region inland from the west coast. Previously I’d only used Merredin, 285km east of Perth, as a brief refreshment stop. Being the largest town for hundreds of kilometres makes it very suitable for that. This time, however, I stayed overnight to explore some of the natural attractions in the area. That’s when I found out about the Snapshot Tour, a town tour run by “Discover the Wheatbelt” late afternoon every day for most of the year.

Normally I avoid organised tours, but as it cost only $15 and would only take up 90 minutes, there wasn’t too much to lose. Curiosity got the better of me.

It didn’t take long to see why this was going to be a good tour. The guy running it, Martin Morris, is a long time Merredin resident who not only knows the place inside out, but is passionate about it. Being a tour guide isn’t just a job - he already has a day job. He leads tours because he enjoys showing off his town, and this enthusiasm makes the tour very engaging. On the surface, a country town’s airstrip and wheat bins may not sound like the subjects of gripping tales, but the stories behind them, as told by Martin, are worth hearing.

The tour uses a comfortable small coach, and takes in points of interest in and around the town. Merredin’s history is talked about, as you might expect, but it’s the focus on the town’s present that left the greatest impression on me. In particular, the way water is harvested and recycled in an arid climate. Examples of waste-water recycling were pointed out, which would otherwise be easy to not notice. The gathering of rainwater from granite outcrops, and the present fight against salinity, are other cases of Merredin’s people adapting to their challenges.

In contrast to most inland Australian towns, which are slowly shrinking, Merredin is actually growing. The tour helps explain what is different about Merredin, and why the growth is not surprising. Martin’s other role as a town councillor allows him to give insights into many of the town’s innovations, and provides a source of many interesting stories about the town and its people.

I felt that the relatively small investment of time and money in doing this tour was well rewarded. Never again will I think of Merredin as just a toilet stop!

Links:
Discover The Wheatbelt

I visited during the winter off-season, as part of a visit to the charming Stewart Island, which is off the bottom of the south island near Invercargill. What attracted me to the Rakiura Track was its “easy” grading and the length of 36km, which can be done comfortably in three days. As a person of questionable fitness I thought this would be a much kinder introduction to hiking in New Zealand than the more demanding tracks on the mainland.

The Rakiura Track is a circular route, beginning and ending at the island’s only settlement at Halfmoon Bay, so no transport is needed. My hike began as soon as I had registered at the DOC office and paid the hut fees. The first and last sections follow sealed roads, but they are extremely quiet - I don’t remember seeing any traffic on my walk.

I decided to walk anticlockwise, which meant the first day’s walk was north along the coast on mostly excellent surfaces. There was a little beach walking, some panoramic coastal views, and plenty of deliciously lush rimu and kamahi forest to relax in. Also a swing bridge which threatened my fear of heights, even though I new it was well built and perfectly safe.

The second day was mostly forested hills, and provided the bulk of the track’s uphill walking. By New Zealand standards the hills are small, but for the unfit they are still tiring enough! The extensive view from the track’s high point, over Paterson Inlet and the wilderness beyond, compensated for the perspiration.

Day three provided more exquisite forest, skirting deserted silent inlets and gentle hills before re-entering town from the west.

Both nights of the walk were spent in very well equipped huts - sheer luxury if you’re used to walking in Australia where huts are comparatively rare. I never quite managed to get the stoves lit, but thanks to the wonders of thermal underwear the huts felt cosy enough without heating.

Overall it was an excellent experience, my only grumble (and it’s only a little one) being the striking difference in track quality between the east section and the rest. The deterioration from paved gravel, stones and boardwalk on day one to bare mud and tree roots on day two gave the impression the track was still under construction. It seemed odd that a track rated top standard could vary so much, but this was overshadowed by the pure charm of the environment.

As for the track’s official grading as “easy” …  it may be easy compared to other NZ tracks, but the effort required is not to be sneezed at when you’re carrying a backpack. If you’re fit and hike regularly it may well seem easy. On the other hand, sedentary workers who hike once per year can find it tiring … but not too much to enjoy it.

I walked this three day hike in winter and had it almost to myself; the quietness and solitude enhanced my enjoyment of what is mostly wilderness with little evidence of human interferance. I also enjoyed mostly dry weather which contradicted the island’s reputation for being wet all the time - this reputation is undeserved, though it’s still wise to take wet weather gear. It may not rain all the time, but it still rains frequently.

The Rakiura Track shows what much of New Zealand was like before 90% of its forests were destroyed. If you want to do a multi-day hike in New Zealand, but prefer something less demanding than the better known tracks, and away from the crowds, then the Rakiura Track is worth considering.

Links:
Rakiura Track information (NZ Dept of Conservation)