Wilderness Views From Mt Chudalup
By graham | March 31, 2010
If you’re visiting Northcliffe, in Western Australia’s southern forests, a good side trip is to visit the coastal cliffs of Windy Harbour. However, when driving to the coast it’s easy to whizz straight past Mt Chudalup, as so many do. I reckon it’s worth stopping for the short but scenic climb.
Don’t be misled by the “Mt” prefix. Like most West Australian features labelled as mount something or other, Mt Chudalup is no lofty peak; rather more like a big hill, with a summit altitude of 187 metres. Any reasonably fit person can reach the top with a little effort - it is an uphill walk with some steep bits near the top.
Lack of altitude is no handicap. The surrounding area is mostly low and gently undulating, and Mt Chudalup’s modest height gives a commanding view over forested wilderness stretching to the horizon, or to the coast. It’s a great way to gain a perspective of the area, and just how undeveloped it is.
If you drive between Northcliffe and Walpole, you may notice that the forest is not all the same. There are pockets of gigantic karri trees as seen on the postcards, but between these are patches of marri, jarrah, and other smaller trees. Some sections are hilly and lush, while others are flat, sandy and more open. While you can observe this variation from a car, standing on Mt Chudalup reveals the diversity in a more graphic way, all at once.
To visit, turn up the signposted side road which branches left (if heading towards the coast) 16km south of Northcliffe. A short drive up good gravel brings you to a car park (with a toilet), from where it is about 1.5km walk to the top. An hour is sufficient for most people to do the return walk with a rest on top. More time might be needed if you’re unfit, or it’s hot, or you just want to take your time and properly observe the changing vegetation.
The walk begins in big forest, but as you ascend the trail the surrounds become more open, and lower. At Mt Chudalup’s summit you’ll find bare granite domes - a little steep in places, but providing extensive and unobstructed views. There’s usually a good breeze to cool you down, too. There are also some steep drops which should be treated with caution in high winds; blown-away companions would be hard to retrieve!
Returning is via the same route, and nearly all downhill! Whether you go to better appreciate the environment, or just for a nice view, visiting Mt Chudalup is a short detour and a pleasant addition to a day trip from Northcliffe.
Topics: Walks, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Lake Ohau
By graham | March 24, 2010
New Zealand’s south island has some beautiful large lakes. Vistas of pristine waters and snowclad mountain backdrops are associated with names like Tekapo, Pukaki and Wakatipu. Just as beautiful but less well known is Lake Ohau - almost undeveloped, and just far enough from the main roads to miss being seen by passing traffic.
If you’re heading from Christchurch along the inland route to Queenstown, you’ll pass the edge of Lake Tekapo first, followed a little later by Lake Pukaki. Pukaki is famous for its views towards Mt Cook, and the road to Mount Cook village runs along its edge.
Lake Ohau (pronounced oh-how) is the next major lake to the south, however the main road drifts eastwards and misses it completely. This allows most visitors to arrive in the tiny town of Omarama with no awareness of the magnificent lake just beyond their vision to the west.
So if you do take the side road off the main road, 17km north of Omarama, and drive for about 20 minutes west to Lake Ohau, what do you find? Not very much … and that’s part of the attraction for many of us.
The main development is the Lake Ohau ski area and the accompanying lodge at the foot of the access road. This modest lodge, and the ski area with just one chairlift, don’t make much of an impact on the environment. The relative lack of towns and accommodation in the region limit the skier traffic, and the ski season is only for a few months of the year anyway.
Upon reaching the shore of Lake Ohau you’ll find nothing but a stoney lake shore - not even a car park. Stopping to admire and photograph the extensive view up the length of the lake means pulling over to the roadside and walking a short distance across lightly vegetated ground. It’s not hard, but requires a deliberate choice. A far cry from the paved viewpoint with coach parking and signage that draws visitors at Lake Pukaki!
The road continues along the western edge of Lake Ohau. Once past the lodge and ski area turnoff, the road narrows and turns to good gravel. Further down the lake is a small bush reserve, which is a pleasant place to stop and admire the lake shore amidst the trees. It’s a great picnic spot too, assuming you’ve brought everything you need.
I did just that, soaking up the tranquility of a pristine glacial lake with the feeling that I was seeing it pretty much as the first human to go there would have seen it. Well, not quite - there’s less forest than there once was, and some sheep paddocks south of the lake, although these aren’t visible from the lake shore. But compared with most big lakes Ohau has an untouched feel to it.
So why don’t more people go to Lake Ohau? The bulk of tourists passing through are on the long journey between Christchurch and Wanaka or Queenstown. Though not far from the main road, a side trip to Lake Ohau and back is a significant detour in what is already a long drive. Especially for those who have just passed some big lakes and don’t want to go out of their way to see another one.
If you’re travelling independantly with the luxury of time to explore, you’ll share Lake Ohau with just a scattering of fishermen, hlkers or skiers - or maybe nobody else at all.
More information:
Ohau Snow Fields and Lake Ohau Lodge
Topics: Attractions, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Reasons to Avoid January Travel In Australia
By graham | March 17, 2010
If you’re thinking of visiting Australia from the northern hemisphere, it might be tempting to visit in January - swapping the cold dark northern winter for the warmth and sunshine of summer down under. While not wanting to discourage anyone, it’s only fair to mention some of the downsides of January travel in Australia.
It may seem odd to emphasise negatives on a website portraying good things about Australia. But while I aim to highlight places overlooked by tourist brochures, highlighting travel challenges overlooked or glossed over by tourist brochures is another way of providing some balance.
Here then are my top reasons why January may not be the best time to visit Australia, and why you’re not likely to find me roaming around at that time:
- Crowds! School holidays run from before Christmas to the end of January (dates vary between states), making it the most crowded time of year. For many Australians it’s the only time they can have a decent break. Peace and quiet can still be found, but you’ll have to look harder for it than at other times of year.
- Accommodation can be booked out well in advance … especially the most desirable or best value places.
- Bargains and discounts are scarce or non-existant. When accommodation can be found, it is nearly always at maximum price.
- Vehicle hire is also harder to book, and more expensive. An example is the campervan I hired in Tasmania for $50 per day in winter - it’s $125 per day in summer, if you can get one.
- The bad side of human behaviour is more apparent - things like noise and drunken antisocial behaviour. Of course people who behave inconsiderately can turn up anywhere, at any time, and Australia is probably no worse than anywhere else … but more of them hit the Australian roads in January than any other month.
- Flies and mosquitoes are out in full force. Although these pests vary a lot in their numbers and timing from place to place, they peak in the hotter months.
- Heat can be excessive away from the southern coasts and mountains. Warm weather might sound appealing if you live somewhere cold, but the novelty can quicky wear off when it stays too hot for too long.
- It is possibly the worst time of year for hiking and camping - a shame when so many of Australia’s attractions are nature based. This is due to the discomfort and dehydrating effects of heat, plus the peak in the abundance of snakes and annoying insects, not to mention a scarcity of drinking water in many places, and the bushfire risk. Exceptions are the alpine areas and Tasmania, though some would argue even these areas are better in spring or autumn.
- Wet season in the tropics means excessive humidity combining with heat to create maximum discomfort. Also tropical cyclones (hurricanes) can cause damage, flooding and road closures.
This beach may look nice ... but the flies could be unbearable, and the sand too hot to walk on with bare feet
Some of these negatives - relating to accommodation, costs and crowds - can be substantially offset by delaying travel until February when school holidays have finished. The other environmental “challenges” still apply then, but can be largely avoided by travelling in spring (Sep-Nov) or autumn (Mar-May) when conditions are more friendly.
Having said all that, plenty of people manage to have enjoyable holidays in Australia in January. It just helps if you have some more realistic expectations than those presented by the travel industry.
More information:
Bureau of Meteorology climate information
- How hot is hot? With a bit of hunting from this page you can get detailed climate information for just about any weather station in Australia.
School Holiday Dates
- This page has links for all the school holiday and public holiday dates for each Australian state
Topics: Odds and Ends | Add Your Comment »
Comfort On A Budget In Christchurch
By graham | February 24, 2010
A while back I wrote about comfortable budget accommodation in New Zealand, citing the BBH hostel chain as one option for those wanting basic comfort and privacy without a hotel price tag. Here I share one of my three favourites - Dorset House in Christchurch.
Although classed as a backpacker hostel, the owners take pride in it being small and homely, which it is. If you imagine a big two-storey house with lots of bedrooms, a cosy lounge room and a log fire, then you’ve got the picture. Its location on the quieter fringes of the central city area also set it apart from other hostels which tend to position themselves nearer to the city centre but in less charming settings.
The clincher for me was the way solo travellers are catered for. That is, solo travellers who don’t want to share a dormitory with strangers, something which can become less appealling with age. Dorset House (and other BBH hostels) have rooms specifically for singles. Naturally they cost more than a dorm bed, but are less than the twin or double rooms which the hostel also has. Treating people on their own with as much respect as people who are accompanied is something that more expensive places could get better at!
The real beds (not bunks) and comfort of the rooms make it easy to forget you’re in a hostel - until you leave your room and use the shared facilities. Communal lounges are one of the strengths of hostels, and having a very well equipped shared kitchen at one’s disposal can be a fantastic asset. Not just for saving money by self-catering … I used the kitchen at Dorset to prepare daily rations for a camping trip, something which would have been much harder in a motel or hotel.
If you don’t want to do your own food, there are plenty of eating places in the vicinity. Nearby Victoria Rd, a main road heading north-west out of the city, hosts a variety of eating places and cafes. Procope Cafe, just around the corner from the hostel, does delightful breakfasts and coffee. I found this cafe after running out of breakfast cereal near the end of my trip, and wished I’d run out of cereal sooner.
Dorset House is about ten or fifteen or twenty minutes walk from the city centre - depending on your route and how fast you walk. While it may have an “away from the hustle and bustle” feel to it, the hostel is still within walking distance of most of the central city if you don’t mind using your legs.
Another selling point is the proximity to the Avon River, just 200 metres to the west. A relaxing stroll along this gentle river, among manicured park land, provides access to the western end of central Christchurch - not a bad way of getting around.
I stayed at Dorset House at the beginning and end of my last NZ trip, and also during the middle when I switched from bus mode to car mode. It was a beautifully comfortable home base, made particularly welcoming by the friendliness and helpfulness of its hosts and staff. Next time I go to Christchurch, I know where I’ll want to stay!
More information:
Dorset House website (very comprehensive)
Dorset House page on BBH hostels website
Topics: Accommodation, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »
Yeagarup Dunes - Where Sand Invades Forest
By graham | February 17, 2010
The Pemberton area in Western Australia is best known for its spectacular forests of karri and other native trees. But rising suddenly out of this forest - and slowly creeping inland - is an expanse of big sand dunes on the move. These are the Yeagarup Dunes, the largest land-locked mobile dune system in the southern hemisphere.
The sand dunes are about 20km southwest of Pemberton, and are an odd sight when you first come upon them, rising up to 40m above otherwise normal forest. They form a ten kilometre long body of sand being blown inland, swallowing the forest at a rate of about 4 metres each year. Slow, but unstoppable.
Having a look around the dunes, or at least their edges, provides a refreshingly different angle on what is mostly a forested and farmed region. Here are three ways of getting a taste of it.
1. Organised 4WD tour
Pemberton Discovery Tours operate trips in 4WD vehicles with experienced drivers. Although the Yeagarup dunes are “land-locked”, they aren’t far from the coast, and the tour takes you right to a wild deserted beach where the Warren River gently enters the sea. The tour also passes through old growth karri forest, with good descriptions of everything you see.
I’ve done this tour, and learned from the commentary despite being already well acqainted with the region. It’s a great way for non-4WD vehicle owners to see an interesting area few get to see, with someone skilled and experienced to worry about driving safely through some very hair-raising terrain.
2. Do-it-yourself 4WD tour
Anybody with their own four wheel drive vehicle can drive through the Yeagarup dunes to the coast. The catch is that you would need to be confident with driving through deep sand with some very steep slopes, and possibly no-one else around to call on for help if stuck.
3. Do-it-yourself walking tour with conventional car
This option is available to anyone who has a regular two wheel drive car and the willingness to go walking. It’s also the cheapskates option, which may be why it was how I first explored the Yeagarup dunes!
From Pemberton, head towards Nannup on the Vasse Highway. About 12km from Pemberton, turn left down Ritter Road. Thls turnoff is near where Old Vasse Rd (through the Warren National Park) joins the highway. Continue down the gravel Ritter Road, and after a further 11km you’ll reach Yeagarup Lake with its picnic area and toilet. Beyond this point is strictly for four wheel drive vehicles, so if you’re in a regular car, park here.
After taking in the small lake, proceed on foot down the sandy track which is a continuation of Ritter Rd. Not far down this track a wall of sand is encountered, appearing very out of place in the thick forest. The exact spot where you leave the track to climb the dunes will vary from year to year, but should be clear enough when you come to it. Remember to keep an ear open for approaching vehicles, and be ready to quickly move aside off the sometimes narrow track.
Once up on the sand, you’re in another world. To one side spreads a view over low forest, dense and green, while on the other stretches just sand - and lots of it. Part beach-like, part desert-like, it forms a stark contrast to the surroundings.
Away from any vegetation, you can pretend to be in part of the Sahara desert, and take suitable photos. Sand-boarding could be an option if you’ve got something to slide down large dunes on. Otherwise, just going for a wander to explore the dunes - wherever takes your fancy - can pass the time pleasantly. The coast is too far for a return day walk, but there’s plenty of sand to explore.
I should point out that walking in the soft sand can be sweaty work, even in winter, so a drink bottle might be appreciated. Also, if you plan on walking far, look back and take a mental picture of where you entered the dunes … to help you find the exit point later! Some days finding your way out may be easy. On cloudy days, with fresh tracks scarce and footprints wind-covered, it may not be so obvious.
When you’ve had your fill of mobile forest-eating sand dunes, simply return the way you came.
More information:
Yeagarup Dunes (Pemberton WA website)
D’Entrecasteaux National Park (Dept of Environment & Conservation)
Pemberton Discovery Tours (look under Beach & Forest Eco Adventure)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Merredin Railway Station Museum
By graham | December 21, 2009
Many country towns have small historical museums, and standards vary. One which I found to be rather interesting and well done is in the Western Australian town of Merredin, and although it focuses on railway history there is more to it than train memorabilia.
Merredin, with around 3000 people theses days, is an important wheatbelt service town mid-way between Perth and Kalgoorlie. In older days it gained importance not just for agriculture but with its strategic location en route to the flourishing goldfields. Railways played a large role in the area’s history, so it seems appropriate that a museum be located in the old railway station building.
The Merredin Railway Station Museum is right near the centre of town - next to the main highway heading east but largely overlooked by the busy passing traffic. Upon entering and paying the small fee (adults $4 when I visited in 2009) you are given a little booklet which serves as a good guide to the museum. One of the impressions I left with was just how well organised and labelled the collection was. Whatever your level of interest may be, there is enough detail to feed it.
Plenty of photos and written descriptions fill the rooms of the old station, including the early settler women’s room, but here they play a supporting role. Central to the collection is an abundance of diverse objects: genuine artefacts from the past. Most are connected in some way with the railways, but not all.
One which caught my interest was a wheelbarrow used by prospectors to haul their gear from Perth to the goldfields before the railways arrived. I’d read how they used to push their loads hundreds of kilometres across untamed land, but to see one of these heavy-looking wheelbarrows in real life gave me new respect for the challenges people faced back then … and the difference the railways must have made.
Outside, the platforms provide an open-air collection of larger objects. Parked on one railway track is an assortment of train carriages and engines, including a steam engine waiting to be restored. While I was there a bunch of children amused themselves happily pretending to be engine drivers. You can also climb up into the signal cabin where a mass of levers control the surrounding tracks, while catching a view of the town.
Train buffs and boys of all ages will probably find this museum most appealing. However anyone with an interest in scratching beneath the surface to get a feel for the area’s history should get something out of it. Check with the visitors centre in Merredin for current opening times.
More information:
Merredin Railway Museum
Central Wheatbelt Visitor Centre (Merredin)
Topics: Attractions, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Hobart Astor Hotel
By graham | December 8, 2009
Astor Private Hotel, Hobart
On my last visit to Hobart I was a little bit demanding. I wanted a private room somewhere that was comfortable, centrally located (but not too noisy), and much nicer than a backpackers … and all for much cheaper than a motel. A tall order, perhaps, but the Hotel Astor ticked all the boxes.
Normally I avoid hotels because of the cost, but the Astor is priced very reasonably for a hotel if you don’t need an en-suite bathroom. In fact, with the reduced winter rates, a room there was slightly cheaper than a room at the Adelphi Lodge YHA hostel, 3km from Hobart’s centre. I stayed at Adelphi Lodge once before - and while it’s a good hostel in a quiet area, it’s not quite up to the standard of the Hotel Astor, and not as conveniently located.
The Astor is within walking distance of just about anywhere you’d want to walk in central Hobart. However it avoids the noise and antisocial behaviour which can sometimes be a disadvantage of central city accommodation. The Elizabeth St bus mall and waterfront areas, which seem to be Hobart’s nearest thing to night time trouble spots, are not close enough to be a concern.
Comfortable, cosy and clean also describe the place. The rooms I stayed in were tastefully decorated but basic by hotel standards, but luxurious by backpacker standards. Most importantly, the beds were comfortable. Radiators kept the rooms warm, but what I appreciated was the option to go without heating and open the window - something not possible in many flashier places.
Hobart waterfront, a 10-15 min stroll from the Astor
Some rooms are en-suite, but the cheaper rooms make use of shared toilets, and shared individual shower rooms. All were clean, and the showers would have to be the most satisfying I’ve used in Tasmanian accommodation.
Breakfast is included in the rate, consisting of self serve cereal, toast, juice and tea/coffee in a shared dining room. Also shared is a cosy lounge room with TV, refrigerator and small book exchange - some of the communal benefits of hostels which you normally don’t get in more up market places.
A great asset of the Astor is Tildy, the woman who runs it. Her delightfully unique character ensures the place is both well run and welcoming. Another asset is the outlet of Jackman and McRoss - one of Hobart’s best and most popular bakeries. While separate from the hotel, it is downstairs in another part of the same building: perhaps a little too convenient if you’re trying to lose weight!
If you’re looking for somewhere in Hobart that’s comfortable, central but not too expensive, and combines the best elements of hostel, hotel and B&B, I can recommend the Astor. I hope to stay there again some day.
More information:
The Astor Private Hotel
Note - as always, these are my own honest and unbiased opinions, written without any rewards or inducements.
Topics: Accommodation, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Wanaka River Jetboat Journeys
By graham | November 28, 2009
I’ve written before about experiencing the beauty of New Zealand’s Matukituki valley by car (here). Another great way to enjoy this spectacular valley near Wanaka is a jet boat trip with Wanaka River Journeys.
This company is a small and personal husband and wife operation which takes small groups up the Matukituki River and back, with a walk or refreshment break at the furthest point. Brent, the host on my trip, drives the boat expertly at high speed in impossibly shallow water, and is a wealth of information about the area. Not just tour guide trivia either - he is a maori whose ancestors have lived in the area for centuries, so he conveys real passion for the area as well as his extensive local experiences.
The trip provides the exhilaration you’d expect from a jet boat ride in New Zealand, but also allows time to take in the tranquillity and wilderness values of an undeveloped valley that is well worth visiting.
Since I did my trip with them, Wanaka River Journeys has expanded to include an optional guided forest walk on their regular journeys, plus jetboat trips which incorporate a helicopter flight to the Aspiring Glacier or a hike to the Rob Roy Glacier (as if I needed any more temptation to return to Wanaka). Jet boat trips in New Zealand aren’t cheap, but when comparing “bang per buck” I think the trip up the Matukituki River still compares very well with the Queenstown alternatives.
If the thrill of the jet boat ride itself is all you’re after, then the Shotover Jet at Queenstown can be hard to beat for heart-stopping speed in a narrow gorge (although the one at Hanmer Springs comes close). But if you want your boat ride to include fantastic scenery, a wilderness experience, history and culture plus great people, then I can recommend Wanaka River Journeys.
Links:
Wanaka River Journeys
Topics: Activities, New Zealand (south) | Add Your Comment »