About Maps, And Update Frequency
By graham | August 12, 2009
This is just a quick explanatory note about a couple of aspects of this website.
Maps
I like to include basic maps showing the locations of places I write about on this website. Not for navigation - anyone touring the area can get free detailed maps from visitors’ centres - but to provide context and indicate the general area.
So far I’ve used Google maps. With the ability to zoom in, scroll around and switch to aerial photos, it seemed the ideal solution for a website.
Unfortunately, creating Google maps has become painfully slow and troublesome. Components either don’t load, don’t work, or else they take an extremely long time, or numerous attempts. The time I’ve wasted following Google’s troubleshooting tips has been fruitless, therefore I’ve given up on Google maps. I simply don’t have the time to waste on their fault-ridden product - the time would be better spent writing content.
I’m looking at alternatives that don’t take all day, and actually work. In the meantime, I apologise for any lack of maps.
Update Frequency
I began this website with the aim of adding to it twice per week if possible, but was happy with an average of once per week. Things have dropped off a lot recently!
The reason - I’ve been juggling a demanding combination of work and study which has consumed nearly all my free time. It won’t always be that way, but there may often be periods when busyness precludes regular writing. Also there will be times when I’m travelling and therefore offline.
My desire to build this website into a large and useful resource remains, however it is a long term goal (ie many years). In the short term, don’t be surprised if my writing is sometimes irregular.
Topics: Odds and Ends | Add Your Comment »
The Coldest Town In New Zealand
By graham | June 20, 2009
Curiosity is a great motivator, and when applied to travel it can provide the reason for some interesting journeys. My desire to find out why it gets so cold in Ophir took me on one such journey to a starkly beautiful and somewhat chilly place.
Ophir, in the south of New Zealand, is a tiny town which holds the record for the country’s lowest temperature. On July 3rd, 1995, a low of -21.6°C broke the previous record, which was also held by Ophir. I was travelling in New Zealand during that memorable winter, and my curiosity was aroused - of all the cold places in New Zealand, why did Ophir break the records? I had to find out.
At first it seemed straightforward. Ophir’s inland location in Central Otago gives it a drier climate with clearer skies than elsewhere in New Zealand. Add a valley location and sparse vegetation to a modest bit of altitude (298m) and you have the ingredients for extreme cooling on calm winter nights. But while great cold could be accounted for, it didn’t explain why Ophir gets colder than other towns in the area which share a similar climate.
I had a perfect excuse to indulge in a style of travel that could be described as “investigative exploring”. On my most recent return to New Zealand, I headed to Ophir, and on a morning when a brass monkey might have lost a ball or two, I scraped the ice off the car and set out to satisfy my curiosity.
A good look at the topography revealed what I think sets Ophir apart - not only is it situated in the mother of all frost hollows, but a little down from the town stands a group of hills which cross the valley and must surely obstruct descending cold air. The river has cut a channel through, but for cold air the hills could act as a crude dam, with Ophir at the very bottom of a what becomes a huge cold air reservoir.
I also learned that morning fog or low cloud in the area sometimes blocks the sun and minimises warming after a frosty night. If repeated over several mornings, the cooling is intensified.
Having satisfied my curiosity about Ophir’s microclimate, I drove around and enjoyed the beauty of sunrise on a crisp frosty morning. I then satisfied my appetite with a magnificent cooked breakfast at the pub in nearby Omakau, and reflected a little. Investigating climatic extremes is obviously not to everyone’s taste, but I’d found that the quest to satisfy my personal curiosity had led to a journey more rewarding than merely going where the guidebooks suggest.
Looking towards Dunstan Mountains from Raggedy Range, with Ophir down on the valley floor
Topics: New Zealand (south), Towns | Add Your Comment »
Free Glow-Worms In Tasmania
By graham | June 7, 2009
Glow-worms can be viewed on a number of paid tours, such as Waitomo Caves and Te Anau in New Zealand, and Marakoopa Cave in northern Tasmania. Less well known is the fact that anyone can see these luminous insects - without having to pay or enter a cave - near one of Tasmania’s most popular attractions.
The location is Russell Falls, 75km west of Hobart - possibly the most beautiful waterfall in the state, and one which nearly everyone who visits Tasmania sees at some point.
The catch: the falls are normally visited in daylight, whereas the glow-worms are only visible when it’s dark. This generally limits the glow worms’ visitors to those with their own transport who linger after dusk, or those staying in the area’s limited accommodation. If you have a van or are otherwise equipped for camping, the Land of the Giants Campground is a very pleasant spot by the river within walking distance of the falls.
Seeing the glow worms is easy. Once it is dark, simply grab a torch and follow the flat and easy walking path towards Russell Falls, about ten minutes from the car park. A small glow worm grotto - some damp rock overhangs and fallen trees - is in the rainforest on the left side of the track shortly before the falls. A sign indicates the area, and tells you where to look.
After your eyes have adjusted to the dark, the luminous larvae of the mosquito-like insects become more visible, and can resemble a field of stars in the night sky.
The glow worms at Russell Falls are not as impressive, nor nearly as extensive, as the displays you pay to see in caves elsewhere. But if you’re in that part of Tasmania it is a free and easy glimpse into their world, and the local wildlife makes a dusk walk in the Russell Falls area a pleasant thing anyway.
Links:
Parks & Wildlife Service - Mt Field National Park
Wikipedia article on Arachnocampa (the genus of glow-worms found down under)
Topics: Alternatives, Tasmania | Add Your Comment »
Good Budget Accommodation In Augusta, WA
By graham | May 28, 2009
One of my favourite places to stay in Western Australia in recent years has been the Baywatch Manor in Augusta. Frequently voted the best YHA hostel in Australia, it is much more than you might expect from backpacker accommodation … and has a wonderful bakery nearby.
I began staying there soon after the purpose built two-level building was opened in 1995. What first appealed to me was the location - centrally sited in a quiet part of the small town’s main street, with views over Flinders Bay (hence the Baywatch name). Just as appealing was the presence, only two minutes walk from the hostel, of the Augusta Bakery Cafe - my favourite eating place in southwest WA.
Next to impress me was the standard of the the place. Clean and comfortable are over-used words in accommodation literature, but they really do apply here. Spacious, tastefully decorated and well equipped are also accurate descriptions.
Sleeping quarters include shared dormitory rooms, twin, double and family rooms, plus the en-suite rooms which have the best views. Most rooms make use of the pleasant shared bathrooms. Downstairs are the communal dining area, kitchen, and lounge/TV room - nicer and more roomy than what most hostels provide.
The kitchen is particularly well equipped for those who like to keep costs down by self catering - something usually not possible in more expensive accommodation. Although with the bakery so close at hand, I confess I haven’t used Baywatch’s kitchen as much as I should have!
The original owners, Neville and Jane, provided the friendliness and good management that made good accommodation truly great. I haven’t been to Augusta as much since new owners took over, but the standards at Baywatch Manor appear to be just as high. My only complaint - and it’s only a small one - is that the mattresses are of the dense foam rubber variety rather than proper spring mattresses. You can’t have everything in budget accommodation.
Like most coastal spots, Augusta is very busy in the summer holiday period. At other times, it is a much quieter alternative to Margaret River and other tourist towns further north, largely because it is further from Perth. For anyone looking to explore the region from a comfortable but economical base - with views and a great bakery nearby - I can recommend Baywatch Manor at Augusta.
Links:
YHA Australia - the Baywatch Manor page, with online bookings and availability checking
Baywatch Manor Resort - more information and photos
Topics: Accommodation, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Lake Clifton Thrombolites, WA
By graham | May 16, 2009
The stromatolites of Shark Bay, on Western Australia’s north western coast, are well publicised in the tourist literature. However you don’t need to go to such a remote place to see these pre-historic living rocks. Their close cousins - thrombolites - can be seen just south of Mandurah, within 100km of Perth.
In case you were wondering what these things are, both are types of rare and extremely primitive life forms. They consist of single-celled bacteria which deposit layers of silt and calcium that slowly grow into rounded rocks. Scientists believe they are the earliest form of life on earth, dating back about 3500 million years, and the origins of oxygen in the atmosphere. These relics are mostly extinct and exist only as fossils - living examples can still be found growing in just a handful of places in the world. Shark Bay is the well known Western Australian example, but Lake Clifton is more accessible.
Lake Clifton’s thrombolites can be reached from either of two roads - Mount John Rd and Clifton Downs Rd. Both are turn-offs from the Old Coast Road, south of Mandurah (and south of the Dawesville Channel) but north of where the new John Forrest Highway branches off towards Perth (see link below for map).
A few minutes drive brings you to a parking area with toilets and signs telling you about the thrombolites and their environment, which is part of Yalgorup National Park. From there a boardwalk takes you out over the shallow lake to where the thrombolites can be viewed from many angles. And what do you see? A community of rounded rock-like structures lying just beneath the surface … or just breaching the surface, depending on water levels. Their humble appearance gives no indication of their status as extremely rare and ancient life forms - living fossils.
The thrombolites are more exposed in the lower water levels of summer and autumn, but are still easily seen at other times. Visibility is more affected by wind - strong winds may roughen the water surface and limit the underwater view. On the other hand, wind helps keep away the mosquitoes which can be a nuisance in still weather.
Links:
Google map showing location of Lake Clifton Thrombolites
More about thrombolites and stromatolites
Environment and Conservation Dept - Yalgorup National Park
Topics: Alternatives, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
The Queenstown to Glenorchy Road, NZ
By graham | May 11, 2009
Could this be the most scenic drive in New Zealand? In a country abounding in quiet roads and beautiful scenery, such a claim is ambitious. Yet many consider the drive along the edge of Lake Wakatipu between Queenstown and Glenorchy to be the best in the country.
Whether it’s the best is very subjective, but having driven this and many other great kiwi roads, I’d have to say it’s right up there with the most magnificent of them. Even if you haven’t been there, you may have seen glimpses of the road to Glenorchy on television - many car advertisements have been filmed there. The stunning setting amidst lake and snowcapped mountains could make any rust-bucket look good.
The drive starts from New Zealand’s busiest tourist destination, but the majority of Queenstown’s visitors don’t venture very far up the lake, at least by road. Most of those who do are hikers taking a bus to the Routeburn, Greenstone, Caples and Rees-Dart tracks, all of which have their trailheads beyond Glenorchy.
Lake Wakatipu is an 84km long glacial lake (New Zealand’s longest) consisting of three straight sections arranged in a zig-zag. The journey from Queenstown to Glenorchy traverses two of them, and for the most part clings to the sides of the mountains which plunge steeply into the deep waters.
The scenery is magnificent right from the start, but thanks to the explosive growth of Queenstown in recent years, it takes a little while to leave behind the narrow finger of development creeping out of town along the lake edge. Once you round the corner and head up the Glenorchy stretch of the lake, it feels like another world - a remote and nearly pristine one.
Despite the relative straitness of the lake edge, the road along it has plenty of bends, and plenty of ups and downs too. It is the combination of enjoyable driving experience and grand scenery that makes this road memorable for me. The mountain and lake views constantly change, as new peaks come into view and perspectives alter.
A place to pull over mid-journey, just past the corner where the road turns towards Glenorchy, provides a great spot to stop and take photos. The whole drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy is an easy 45km on a sealed road, so unless you’re taking a bus there shouldn’t be any excuse not to stop and take some time to soak up the scenery.
This drive is gorgeous at any time of year, but in my opinion the cooler months, when snow decorates the hills, are best. Hikers’ buses don’t usually run in winter, so you’ll need your own wheels to see it then. If the weather isn’t good, don’t let that put you off - dramatic cloud effects can add atmosphere, and the weather can change quickly. But if you strike a clear sunny day, the blue of the sky and lake, together with the browns and greens of the mountainsides and the white snow, make for some superlative scenes that no postcard can do justice to.
Topics: New Zealand (south), Scenic Roads | 2 Comments »
Wild Solitude At Mandalay Beach, WA
By graham | May 2, 2009
If wild and pristine coastline tickles your fancy, the south-western coast of Western Australia has much to offer. Between Walpole and Augusta lies nearly 200km of unpopulated and undeveloped coastline … the only catch is that most of it is accessible only by four wheel drive, or on foot. Even then, access is very limited. Fortunately, two points on this remote stretch can be reached by normal car - one of them is the ruggedly handsome Mandalay Beach.
This beach is only 8km from the main highway, and 21km in total from the town of Walpole, yet receives far less traffic than it deserves. Perhaps the gravel road puts people off. The first time I drove there, the narrow winding track nearly put me off with its soft sandy surface and lack of passing room. Since then the road has been substantially upgraded, and should no longer deter anyone. I drove it a few months ago, and apart from some loose stones and corrugations it was fine.
At the end of the access road you’ll find parking, a toilet, and a boardwalk leading through the dunes to a long viewing platform with magnificent panoramic views. Benches allow you to soak up the scene from a sitting position, something I can recommend if you want to linger and be soothed.
What you see from the platform is a clean unspoiled beach, rocky headlands, Chatham Island a few kilometres offshore, and the restless southern ocean. The wreck of the Mandalay, a Norwegian ship beached in 1911, is occasionally visible at low tide, and passing whales may be spotted in season. I’ve seen neither so far, but that just gives me an excuse to revisit. As is normal in this part of the world, a smorgasbord of wildflowers enhance any visit in spring.
Steps lead right down the face of the dunes to the beach. Ocean swimming is generally not recommended, but going for a walk can be pleasant, possibly invigorating in the frequently fresh winds.
Of course there’s no guarantee you’ll have the beach to yourself … but unless the weather or the fishing is really good, there’s a good chance you might. Whatever the case, roaming the rugged beauty of Mandalay Beach can be good for the soul.
Links:
Google map showing location of Mandalay Beach
Topics: Beaches, Western Australia | Add Your Comment »
Travel Tip - Seek Out The Least Promoted Areas
By graham | April 25, 2009
When researching a holiday, you might notice that some areas are far more heavily promoted and visited than others. Usually it is because these places are worth visiting - but that doesn’t mean that the less popular and less advertised places have nothing to offer. On the contrary, if you have the flexibility to choose your own route, you might uncover hidden gems if you:
Identify the areas least promoted in tourist literature - then go there.
While it’s true that lack of appeal to visitors can be one reason for a lack of promotion, other common reasons include:
- The area may lack the accommodation, roads and other facilities required to support large numbers of visitors. Tour companies may bypass the area for this reason alone.
- There may not be enough businesses or commercial attractions in the area to fund the sort of advertising that can compete with the big tourist areas.
- The area may be “geographically inconvenient” and not fit easily into typical touring routes. While not preventing visitors, this may inhibit their numbers.
- The residents may not want the sort of growth that mass-market tourism brings.
The road past Great Lake is no tourist hot-spot, but it leads to some fine sights
Lack of promotion to tourists doesn’t necessarily mean there is nothing to see. If you make the effort to explore a less promoted region, any attractions you find can be enjoyed with fewer crowds, a more relaxed atmosphere, and the accommodation will probably be cheaper thanks to less demand.
The Maniototo region of New Zealand is a fine example. While this area does promote itself, such promotion is minuscule compared to that of the more popular areas, and it is not on the mainstream tourist itineraries. Because of this, I went there - and found a gorgeous region made more beautiful, in my mind, by the absence of mass tourism.
Another example is the central plateau of Tasmania around Great Lake and Arthur’s Lake, which doesn’t conveniently fit into the traditional tourist loop of Tasmania. With no significant tourist sites and limited accommodation, one travel guide described it as a bleak area with poor roads, of interest only to hardy trout fishermen. This only encouraged me to go there and see what others are missing - a landscape that is unique in Australia, with a subtle beauty defying the superficial bleakness. And because of the lack of publicity, I was able to enjoy it all without crowds.
If you’re fortunate enough to be planning a holiday, why not check a map and work out which areas are least promoted or not part of the popular touring routes. You never know what unexploited treasures may be hidden there.
Maniototo - not promoted much, but not crowded and not without charm
Note: this post has been adapted from one which first appeared on my other website
Topics: Odds and Ends | Add Your Comment »